Introduction
Are you dreaming of a summer dress that floats on the breeze and turns every head in the garden? This Mint Meadow Crochet Daisy Dress pairs a fitted bodice with a floaty pineapple lace skirt — made for garden parties, barefoot beach days, and every sunlit occasion in between. Cheerful daisy appliques bloom at the neckline and hem, adding the sweetest cottage charm to an elegant silhouette.
The bodice is worked in simple single crochet, then a mesh waistband melts into classic pineapple lace for that dreamy A-line skirt. In DK weight cotton it drapes beautifully and makes the most precious handmade gift — for yourself or someone you adore. One gentle warning, lovely: this is an intermediate to advanced project, and it asks 60 to 90 hours of your time.
Whether you’re building a handmade wardrobe or stitching something special for a big day, this pattern has you covered. The construction is simpler than it looks once you divide it into little sections. Let me guide you through every stitch.
Why You Will Love This Crochet Dress Pattern
This dress has everything a summer garment should. The fitted bodice gives you structure and support, while the airy lace skirt moves with every breeze. The sweetheart neckline is flattering on nearly every figure, and adjustable shoulder straps let you tailor the fit just for you.
The pineapple lace is what makes the skirt sing. If you’ve never tried it, don’t worry one bit — I’ll explain each step as we go. It looks intricate, but once you catch the rhythm, the sequence feels wonderfully logical.
The daisies are crocheted separately and sewn on last, so you can play with their placement — or even change the colors to suit your own style.
Materials Needed
Yarn Requirements
Main Color (MC): Approximately 1,800 yards of DK weight 100 percent cotton yarn in mint green
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): Approximately 200 yards of DK weight 100 percent cotton yarn in white
Contrast Color 2 (CC2): Approximately 50 yards of DK weight 100 percent cotton yarn in yellow
Contrast Color 3 (CC3): Approximately 30 yards of DK weight 100 percent cotton yarn in sage or leaf green for daisy leaves and bases
Recommended Yarn Brands
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Mint and White is a lovely choice here. Its 100 percent mercerized cotton gives beautifully crisp stitch definition for the lace.
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in Spearmint and Paper White drapes nicely for garments and comes in a wonderful range of colors.
Drops Safran in Mint and Off White has a soft matte finish that’s lovely for lace texture.
Look for a smooth, tightly plied DK weight cotton or cotton blend that doesn’t stretch much. Skip wool or acrylic blends — cotton’s drape and stitch definition are what let the pineapple lace open properly.
Tools Required
- US Size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook for bodice and daisy centers
- US Size F-5 / 3.75 mm crochet hook for skirt lace sections
- Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends
- At least 6 stitch markers
- Scissors
- Rust-proof straight pins for blocking and applique placement
- Measuring tape
- Optional: lining fabric in nude or white, approximately 1.5 yards
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for Women’s size Medium.
- Bust: 36 inches / 91.5 cm
- Waist: 28 inches / 71 cm
- Hip at fullest skirt point: 54 inches / 137 cm
- Total length from upper edge to hem: approximately 38 inches / 96.5 cm
- Bodice length: 14 inches / 35.5 cm
- Skirt length before hem daisy border: 20 inches / 51 cm
- Hem daisy border: adds approximately 4 inches / 10 cm
Gauge
For this garment, gauge is everything, lovely. Even the tiniest difference can leave the dress noticeably too large or too small.
With US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and MC:
18 single crochet x 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet
With US F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and MC:
One complete pineapple repeat (15 stitches wide) x 6 rows = approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide and 2.5 inches / 6.4 cm tall
Daisy applique finished: approximately 3 inches / 7.5 cm in diameter
Work a few swatches, wash and block them, then measure again before you begin. This little step saves so much heartache later.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Here are all the abbreviations and stitches in this pattern, explained simply:
ch = chain: Yarn over, pull through loop on hook
sc = single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
tr = treble crochet: Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops three times
sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on hook
sk = skip: Pass over the indicated stitch without working into it
sp = space: The gap created by chain stitches in the previous row or round
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
pm = place marker
rep = repeat
beg = beginning
rem = remaining
Special Stitches Explained
sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): This is a decrease stitch. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Without completing the stitch, insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. You have reduced by 1 stitch.
dc2tog (double crochet 2 together): Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. One decrease made.
Extended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first loop only (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. This stitch is slightly taller than a standard sc and is used in the waistband mesh section.
Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space. One shell made.
Reverse Single Crochet (rsc): Working from left to right (opposite normal direction), insert hook into stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. Used for strap edging.
Pineapple Cluster (PC): Insert hook into designated space or stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops. This completes one incomplete dc. Work 4 more incomplete dc into the same space (6 loops on hook total). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Please read these notes before you begin — they’ll save you so much confusion along the way.
- The bodice is worked flat in rows, seamed at one side, then joined for working the skirt in the round.
- The sweetheart neckline is shaped with short row decreases at the center front. The back neckline is straight.
- Straps are made separately and seamed or sewn to the inside top edge of the bodice.
- The skirt increases are worked in defined increase rounds separated by plain rounds to create the gradual A-line flare.
- The pineapple lace pattern begins at the waist after a short mesh transition section and continues to the hem.
- Daisy appliques are crocheted separately and sewn on after the dress is complete and blocked.
- The pineapple stitch repeat is a multiple of 15 stitches plus 6 for the foundation of the lace section.
- Throughout the lace skirt, do not pull too tightly when working chain spaces or the lace will not open properly.
- Do not use the F-5 hook until instructed. The bodice uses the E-4 hook exclusively.
- All rounds are joined with a sl st to the first stitch unless otherwise noted. After joining, chain 1 for sc rounds or chain 3 for dc rounds to begin the next round.
Step by Step Instructions
Part One: The Bodice
Work the bodice flat in rows, back and forth, starting at the upper front edge — the sweetheart shaping makes a gentle V dip at center front.
Front Bodice Panel
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 83.
Foundation Row (ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Sweetheart Shaping: You will work the right cup first (stitches 1 through 38), then the left cup (stitches 45 through 82), leaving stitches 39 through 44 unworked at center for the V shaping.
Right Front Cup
Row 1 (rs): Ch 1, sc in first 38 sts. Turn. (38 sc)
Row 2 (ws): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (37 sc)
Row 3 (rs): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 4 (ws): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 5 (rs): Ch 1, sc in all sts across. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 6 (ws): Ch 1, sc in all sts across. Turn. (35 sc)
Cut yarn. Place sts on holder or leave on hook with stitch marker.
Left Front Cup
Rejoin MC at stitch 45 with rs facing.
Row 1 (rs): Ch 1, sc in each of the next 38 sts to end. Turn. (38 sc)
Row 2 (ws): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (37 sc)
Row 3 (rs): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 4 (ws): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 5 (rs): Ch 1, sc in all sts across. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 6 (ws): Ch 1, sc in all sts across. Turn. (35 sc)
Join Cups and Continue Front Bodice
Joining Row (rs): Ch 1, sc across left cup (35 sts), ch 6 across center gap, sc across right cup (35 sts). Turn. (76 sc + 6 ch = 82 working sts)
Row 8 (ws): Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Rows 9 through 42: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82 sc each row)
This produces approximately 6.2 inches of bodice length below the cup shaping.
Waist Shaping
Row 43: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 19, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc 19, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (78 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (78 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (70 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (70 sc)
Row 49: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (66 sc)
Row 50: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (66 sc)
Row 51: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 15, sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog, sc 15, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 52: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 53: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (58 sc)
Checkpoint: After Row 53 you should have 58 sts and the front bodice should measure approximately 11 inches from the top edge.
Rows 54 through 62: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (58 sc each row)
These 9 rows form the narrow waist section.
Waist Expansion
Row 63: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 28, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (60 sc)
Row 64: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (60 sc)
Row 65: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 29, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 66: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 67: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 31, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (64 sc)
Row 68: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (64 sc)
Do not cut yarn. Set front bodice aside.
Back Bodice Panel
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 83.
Foundation Row (ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Rows 1 through 42: Ch 1, sc in all sts across. Turn. (82 sc each row)
The back neckline stays straight, with no cup shaping.
Work waist shaping rows 43 through 68 exactly as written for the front bodice panel.
Cut yarn, leaving a 24-inch tail for seaming.
Seaming the Bodice
With wrong sides held together and using the long tail and tapestry needle, mattress stitch the left side seam from the bottom edge up to within 3 inches of the top. Leave the top 3 inches open for the armhole opening. Seam the second side identically.
The resulting tube will have:
- Front: 64 sts along the bottom edge
- Back: 64 sts along the bottom edge
- Combined bottom opening: 128 sts
Checkpoint: The bodice should measure approximately 12.5 to 13 inches in total height. The waist should be approximately 25 inches in circumference. The hip (bottom opening) should be approximately 28 inches in circumference.
Part Two: Neckline Edging
With E-4 hook and MC, join yarn at center back neck edge with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Sc evenly around entire neckline edge working approximately 1 sc per row end on the straight back and sides, following the sweetheart curve naturally at front. Approximate total: 148 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (148 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (148 sc)
Mark strap positions: Front straps begin 12 sts from each armhole edge on the front neckline. Back straps begin 12 sts from each armhole edge on the back neckline.
Part Three: Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 7.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc)
Rows 2 through 80: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (6 sc each row)
This makes about 14.5 inches of strap — adjust for your fit.
Edging: Work 1 row rsc along each long edge of the strap.
Sew straps to bodice at marked positions.
Part Four: Armhole Edging
With E-4 hook and MC, join at bottom of armhole opening with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Sc evenly around armhole edge. Approximately 38 sc around each armhole. Join. (38 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (38 sc)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Part Five: Mesh Waistband Transition
Switch to F-5 hook. Join MC at any st of the bottom opening of the bodice with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around the bottom opening of the bodice. Join. (128 sc)
Rnd 2 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip 1 st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next st) around. Join to third ch of beg ch-4. (64 dc + 64 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3 (mesh): Ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around. Join to third ch of beg ch-4.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join to first sc. (128 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, placing 2 sc in every 8th st to begin flaring. Join. (144 sc)
Rnd 6 (corrected): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 2 sc into every 16th st until 6 extra sts are added. Join. (150 sc)
With 150 stitches, the 15-stitch pineapple repeat fits evenly 10 times around.
Part Six: Pineapple Lace Skirt
All skirt rounds are worked with F-5 hook and MC.
Rnd 7 (setup for lace): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 2, skip 2, dc in next st) rep around to last 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2. Join to third ch of beg ch-5. (50 dc + 50 ch-2 sps)
Pineapple Lace Pattern
Each pineapple motif starts on a 15-stitch base, grows over 10 rounds, then decreases. The full lace skirt uses 6 pineapple tiers, 10 rounds per tier.
Rnd 8: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1) around. Join to top of beg ch-3. (50 groups of 3 dc, 50 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in space between dc groups, ch 5, (sc in next space between groups, ch 5) around. Join. (50 sc + 50 ch-5 sps)
Rnd 10 (begin pineapples): Sl st into first ch-5 sp, ch 3, 6 dc in same sp. (ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 7 dc in following ch-5 sp) rep around to last two sps, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2. Join to top of beg ch-3. (25 fans of 7 dc + 25 sc anchors)
Rnd 11: Sl st to top of fan, ch 3, 2 dc in same top dc. Ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next (center) dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc of fan, ch 1. Working over to next fan: ch 1, 3 dc in first dc of next fan, ch 2, sk 2, sc in center dc, ch 2, sk 2, 3 dc in last dc, ch 1. Rep around. Join.
Rnd 12: Sl st to top of 3-dc group, ch 3, dc in same st, ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in top of next 3-dc group, ch 3, 2 dc in top of following 3-dc group, ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, 2 dc in 3-dc group, ch 3. Rep around. Join.
Rounds 13 through 17 (pineapple close): Each round, work the sc at the tip of each arch and continue reducing the dc count in each pineapple column by 1 dc on each side per round. By round 17 each pineapple has closed to a single sc at its tip.
Tier Increases and Remaining Tiers
Rnd 18 (Tier increase): Work 7 dc into each ch-5 arch around, ch 2 between fans, working 1 sc into arch separators. Add 10 extra arch spaces evenly. (60 arch spaces total)
Tier 2 (rounds 19 through 28): run the pineapple lace sequence again over 60 fan positions.
Rnd 29: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (70 arch spaces)
Tier 3 (rounds 30 through 39): pineapple sequence over 70 fan positions.
Rnd 40: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (80 arch spaces)
Tier 4 (rounds 41 through 50): pineapple sequence over 80 fan positions.
Rnd 51: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (90 arch spaces)
Tier 5 (rounds 52 through 61): pineapple sequence over 90 fan positions.
Rnd 62: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (100 arch spaces)
Tier 6 (rounds 63 through 72): pineapple sequence over 100 fan positions.
Checkpoint: The skirt section should measure approximately 20 inches in length. The hem circumference should measure between 50 and 56 inches.
Hem Arch Edging
Rnd 73: Into each ch-5 arch at hem: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc), sc in each sc anchor between arches. Join. This makes the scalloped edge where the daisy appliques will be sewn.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Part Seven: Daisy Appliques
You’ll make two daisy sizes: large ones for the hem border, smaller ones for the neckline. Every daisy gets white petals (CC1), a yellow center (CC2), and optional green leaves (CC3).
For the daisy petals, use the Daisy Petal special stitch: Chain 8, sl st into the first ch to form a ring. Into the ring: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc). That makes one petal.
Make about 15 to 20 large daisies for the hem border and 8 to 10 smaller ones for the neckline.
Finishing
Block the whole dress before attaching the appliques: pin it to blocking mats, spritz with water, and let it dry completely.
Pin the daisies in place around the neckline and hem border, using the photos as your spacing guide. Stitch each daisy on firmly with matching thread and a tapestry needle.
Weave in all remaining ends, and add the optional lining if you’d like more opacity.
Tips for Success
Be patient with your gauge — I can’t say this enough. After 60-plus hours of stitching, a dress that doesn’t fit would be heartbreaking.
Mark your rounds generously — pineapple lace can get disorienting fast.
Block boldly. Cotton relaxes so much in a wet block, and the lace opens up beautifully with a good blocking.
Do a fitting as you go. Once the bodice is done, slip it on before starting the skirt — adjustments are so much easier at that point.
I hope this Mint Meadow Crochet Daisy Dress is as joyful to make as it will be to wear. Every hour you pour into it shows in the finished piece — and what a piece it is. Thank you so much for choosing this pattern, lovely.
