Introduction
Picture a butter yellow cotton sundress — fitted bodice, lace diamond skirt that catches the light, and three-dimensional flowers blooming along the neckline and hem. That’s this dress — worked in simple single crochet for structure, with an open lace repeat that gives the skirt its dreamy movement. It’s an advanced project, lovely, but so worth every stitch.
You’ll build the dress from the neckline down, working in joined rounds. You’ll shape a sweetheart neckline, nip in the waist with gentle decreases, then let the skirt flare into a soft A-line. You’ll make the daisies, forget-me-nots, roses, and leaves separately, then stitch them along the neckline and hem.
One finished fitted garment under your belt is all the experience you need for this one. Plan on 80 to 120 hours for the main dress, plus another 20 to 30 for all those beautiful flowers — and trust me, you’ll treasure every one.
Why This Crochet Dress Pattern Stands Out
This isn’t your everyday summer crochet project. The Buttercream Wildflower Dress pairs precise garment construction with the most artistic floral embellishment — the finished piece feels like something from a vintage garden party.
The bodice is worked in tight single crochet for a smooth, supportive fit. Then the skirt opens into a gorgeous diamond lace that catches the light and sways as you walk. And the flowers — each one is a tiny sculpture you make separately and arrange just as you please.
I adore how much creative freedom this design gives you. Every rose goes exactly where you decide. You decide just how full the flower border gets. Quantities and placement ideas are in the pattern, but the final arrangement is all yours.
Finished Measurements
The pattern includes four sizes. All measurements are given as Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large).
Bust: 32 (36, 40, 44) inches / 81 (91, 102, 112) cm
Waist: 26 (30, 34, 38) inches / 66 (76, 86, 97) cm
Hip: 34 (38, 42, 46) inches / 86 (97, 107, 117) cm
Total Length (shoulder to hem): 42 (42.5, 43, 43.5) inches / 107 (108, 109, 110) cm
Bodice Length (underarm to waist): 6 (6, 6.5, 6.5) inches / 15 (15, 16.5, 16.5) cm
Skirt Length (waist to hem): 30 (30.5, 31, 31.5) inches / 76 (77, 79, 80) cm
Materials Needed
Yarn
Main Color (MC): Butter yellow cotton yarn, DK weight (CYCA 3), approximately 1,800 (2,000, 2,200, 2,400) yards / 1,646 (1,829, 2,012, 2,195) m
Flower Colors (all DK weight cotton):
- Color A: Dusty rose pink, approximately 60 yards / 55 m
- Color B: Blush pink, approximately 50 yards / 46 m
- Color C: White, approximately 80 yards / 73 m
- Color D: Cornflower blue, approximately 60 yards / 55 m
- Color E: Sage green (leaves and stems), approximately 80 yards / 73 m
- Color F: Pale lavender (optional accent), approximately 30 yards / 27 m
- Color G: Bright yellow (daisy centers), approximately 20 yards / 18 m
Yarn Suggestions: For the main color, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Buttercup is an excellent pick. The flowers shine in Scheepjes Catona, which has a slight sheen and an enormous color range. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK is another easy-to-find option.
Steer clear of fuzzy or textured yarns — you need smooth cotton that shows off the lace and the dimensional flower details.
Hooks
- US size D-3 (3.25 mm) for bodice and flowers
- US size E-4 (3.5 mm) for skirt lace sections
Notions
- Stitch markers (at least 6)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
- Sewing thread and needle for attaching flowers
- Fabric lining or slip in matching color (recommended)
- 1 yard of 1/4-inch elastic (optional for waist comfort if adding lining)
Gauge
Getting gauge right is so important for a fitted garment like this — please swatch before you start.
Bodice (sc, US D-3 hook): 22 sc x 26 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm, blocked
Skirt Lace Panel (US E-4 hook): 1 full lace repeat (14 sts wide) = approximately 2.5 inches / 6.35 cm; 4 rows of lace pattern = approximately 1 inch / 2.54 cm, blocked
Swatch in the round if you can. Cotton can grow quite a bit after washing and blocking, so measure your swatch once it’s fully dry.
Abbreviations
All the abbreviations in this pattern, defined simply — bookmark this section for quick reference:
- beg: beginning
- BLO: back loop only (inserting your hook under just the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops)
- ch: chain (yarn over, pull through loop on hook)
- ch-sp: chain space (the gap created by chain stitches)
- dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
- hdc: half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
- inc: increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
- MR: magic ring (an adjustable starting loop)
- rem: remaining
- rep: repeat
- rnd(s): round(s)
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (a decrease that joins 2 stitches into 1)
- sk: skip
- sl st: slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook)
- sp(s): space(s)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- tr: treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 3 times)
- WS: wrong side
- yo: yarn over
Special Stitches
These techniques appear throughout the pattern — give them a little practice before you cast on.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into first ch of ch-3. This creates a small decorative loop used on the straps and hem.
Shell: Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space. This is the foundation of the skirt lace pattern.
V-stitch (V-st): Work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the same stitch or space.
Beginning Shell (beg-shell): Ch 3, work 4 dc into same stitch or space to complete a 5-dc shell.
Pattern Instructions
Part 1: Front Bodice
Work the front bodice flat in rows of sc to shape the sweetheart neckline.
Front Neckline Shaping (Right Cup)
With MC and D-3 hook, ch 21 (23, 26, 28).
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [20 (22, 25, 27) sc]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [20 (22, 25, 27) sc]
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. [22 (24, 27, 29) sc]
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [22 (24, 27, 29) sc]
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. [24 (26, 29, 31) sc]
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [24 (26, 29, 31) sc]
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. [26 (28, 31, 33) sc]
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [26 (28, 31, 33) sc]
Fasten off. Set aside right cup.
Front Neckline Shaping (Left Cup)
Work Rows 1 through 8 exactly as right cup. Do not fasten off.
Join Cups:
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc across left cup [26 (28, 31, 33) sc], ch 4 for center V bridge, sc across right cup beginning at its first st. [56 (60, 66, 70) sc + 4 ch = 60 (64, 70, 74) working sts]
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc across all sts and ch sts. [60 (64, 70, 74) sc]
Rows 11-12: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [60 (64, 70, 74) sc]
Part 2: Back Bodice
With MC and D-3 hook, ch 61 (65, 71, 75).
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [60 (64, 70, 74) sc]
Rows 2 through 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc across each row. [60 (64, 70, 74) sc]
Part 3: Joining Bodice in the Round
With the RS of both front and back bodice facing outward, lay the pieces together. The top edges become the underarms; each piece should be 12 rows tall and 60 (64, 70, 74) sts wide.
Join MC to beginning of front bodice Row 12 with sl st. Do not turn.
Round 1 (join round): Sc across front [60 (64, 70, 74) sc], sc across back [60 (64, 70, 74) sc], join with sl st to first sc. [120 (128, 140, 148) sc]
Place a stitch marker at each side seam (at positions 60 and 120).
Part 4: Bodice Body
Rounds 2 through 6: Sc in each st around, join with sl st. [120 (128, 140, 148) sc each round]
Part 5: Waist Shaping Decrease
Round 7: [Sc to 2 sts before side marker, sc2tog, sc2tog after marker] twice. [116 (124, 136, 144) sc]
Round 8: Sc around. [116 (124, 136, 144) sc]
Round 9: [Sc to 2 sts before side marker, sc2tog, sc2tog after marker] twice. [112 (120, 132, 140) sc]
Round 10: Sc around. [112 (120, 132, 140) sc]
Round 11: [Sc to 2 sts before side marker, sc2tog, sc2tog after marker] twice. [108 (116, 128, 136) sc]
Round 12: Sc around. [108 (116, 128, 136) sc]
Round 13: [Sc to 2 sts before side marker, sc2tog, sc2tog after marker] twice. [104 (112, 124, 132) sc]
Round 14: Sc around. [104 (112, 124, 132) sc]
Part 6: Waist Band
Rounds 15 through 18: Working in BLO, sc in each st around, join with sl st. [104 (112, 124, 132) sc each round]
The BLO rows create a subtle ridge that defines the waistband.
Part 7: Skirt Transition Round
Before the lace begins, adjust your stitch count so it’s divisible by 14 — that’s the lace repeat width.
Transition Round:
- Size S: Work [sc 12, inc] 8 times. [112 sc]
- Size M: Sc around, no increases. [112 sc]
- Size L: Work [sc 62, inc] twice. [126 sc]
- Size XL: Work [sc 16, inc] 8 times. [140 sc]
Part 8: Skirt Lace Pattern
Switch to E-4 hook.
Skirt Lace Round 1:
Beg-shell in first st, [sk 2, sc in next, sk 2, shell in next, sk 2, sc in next, sk 2] rep around to complete 8 (8, 9, 10) repeats. Join with sl st.
Skirt Lace Round 2:
Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Dc in first ch-sp between beg-shell and sc. Ch 1. [Dc in sc, ch 3, sc in center (3rd) dc of shell, ch 3, dc in sc, ch 1, dc in sp between shells, ch 1] rep around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Skirt Lace Round 3:
Sl st to ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc 4 in same ch-1 sp. [Sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, shell in ch-1 sp between dc clusters] rep around. Join with sl st.
Skirt Lace Round 4:
Ch 1. Sc in center dc of first shell. [Ch 3, dc in sc, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in sc, ch 3, sc in center dc of shell] rep around. Join with sl st.
Skirt Lace Round 5:
Ch 1, sc in first st. [Ch 3, shell in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc in next sc] rep around. Join with sl st.
Rounds 6-8: Repeat Rounds 2, 3, and 4.
These eight rounds together form one complete diamond lace tier.
Skirt Increase Rounds:
After every 2 complete lace tiers (every 16 rounds), work an increase round with the D-3 hook:
Increase Round 1 (after 16 lace rounds):
- Size S and M: [sc 7, inc] 14 times. [126 sc]
- Size L: [sc 8, inc] 14 times. [140 sc]
- Size XL: [sc 9, inc] 14 times. [154 sc]
Increase Round 2 (after 32 lace rounds):
- Size S and M: [sc 8, inc] 14 times. [140 sc]
- Size L: [sc 9, inc] 14 times. [154 sc]
- Size XL: [sc 10, inc] 14 times. [168 sc]
Increase Round 3 (after 48 lace rounds):
- Size S and M: [sc 9, inc] 14 times. [154 sc]
- Size L: [sc 10, inc] 14 times. [168 sc]
- Size XL: [sc 11, inc] 14 times. [182 sc]
Continue with 3 complete lace tiers, working an increase round between each pair.
Part 9: Hem Border
Switch to D-3 hook.
Hem Transition Round: Sc in each st around. [154 (154, 168, 182) sc]
Hem Scallop Round 1: Ch 1. [Sc in next 2 sts, sk 2, shell (5 dc) in next st, sk 2] rep around. Join with sl st. [22 (22, 24, 26) shells]
Hem Scallop Round 2: Sl st to center dc of first shell. Ch 1. Sc in same st. [Ch 3, sc in center dc of next shell] rep around. Join with sl st.
Hem Scallop Round 3: Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 1. [Sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc, hdc, sc] in each ch-3 sp around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Part 10: Straps (Make 2)
With MC and D-3 hook, ch 121 (121, 125, 125).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [120 (120, 124, 124) sc]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. [120 (120, 124, 124) sc]
Picot Edging (both long edges): Join MC at corner. [Sc in next st, sk 1, picot, sk 1] rep across. Fasten off.
Sew the straps to the inside of the bodice at the front sweetheart corners and back bodice top corners, so each spans approximately 9 (9, 9.5, 9.5) inches over the shoulder.
Part 11: Flower Appliques
Make all the flowers separately with these instructions.
Small Rose:
Row 1: With flower color, ch 31. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [30 sc]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. [Inc] across. [60 sc]
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in same st. [Sk 1 st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st] rep across.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Roll the strip into a spiral rose with Row 3 facing out, sewing the base together as you roll.
Large Rose (for hem):
Row 1: Ch 51. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [50 sc]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. [Inc] across. [100 sc]
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st. [Sk 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next] rep across.
Roll and seam it just like the small rose.
Daisy:
With Color C: MR, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed, join with sl st. [6 sc]
Round 2: For each of 6 petals: sl st into next sc, ch 8, tr into 4th ch from hook, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st into last ch, sl st into base sc. Rep for each st. Fasten off, then sew a yellow French knot or bobble at the center.
Forget-me-not Cluster:
With Color D: MR, ch 2, work 5 hdc into ring, pull ring closed, join with sl st. [5 hdc] Fasten off, then work 3 to 5 together in clusters.
Leaf:
With Color E: Ch 10. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last, ch 1. Working along opposite side: sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Flower Quantities:
Neckline: 5 small roses, 4 daisies, 3 forget-me-not clusters, 8 leaves
Hem Border (Size S): 10 large roses, 14 small roses, 18 daisies, 12 forget-me-not clusters, 20 leaves
Hem Border (Size M): 11 large roses, 16 small roses, 20 daisies, 14 clusters, 22 leaves
Hem Border (Size L): 12 large roses, 18 small roses, 22 daisies, 16 clusters, 24 leaves
Hem Border (Size XL): 14 large roses, 20 small roses, 24 daisies, 18 clusters, 26 leaves
Pin all the flowers in place before sewing a single one. Start with the roses, fill in with the daisies and forget-me-nots, then tuck the leaves underneath. Stitch through the bases only, with matching thread.
Part 12: Back Seam and Finishing
Seam the back bodice closed with a slip stitch seam or mattress stitch through the edge stitches, creating a center back seam from neckline to waist.
Block the whole dress on a flat surface or dress form, pinning the lace sections open to show off the diamond pattern. Let it dry fully before you wear it.
Wear this dress over a slip or lining in a matching color.
Tips for Success
Check your gauge obsessively — this is a fitted garment, and a tiny gauge difference multiplied across hundreds of stitches becomes a big sizing problem.
Wash and block your swatch. Cotton grows, and you need to know exactly how much yours stretches before you commit to a size.
Make all your flowers before attaching a single one. Seeing the whole collection laid out helps you create a balanced arrangement.
Photograph your flower placement before sewing. Snap a picture, step back, and look at it on your phone screen — it’s the easiest way to spot gaps or awkward clusters.
Don’t skip the lining. The lace skirt is open and airy, and a slip underneath makes the dress wearable for more occasions — no sheerness worries.
Final Thoughts on This Wildflower Crochet Dress Pattern
This pattern is a true labor of love. The hours add up — and so does the quiet joy of watching something this beautiful bloom beneath your hands. You move closer to a one-of-a-kind wearable treasure with every rose you roll, every petal you shape, every lace round you work.
That butter yellow base makes the perfect canvas for soft pastel blooms. When you slip the finished dress over a simple lining and see it on, every one of those hours melts into pure joy. Some projects stay with you forever — this is one of them.
