I have a serious weakness for baby clothes that make me audibly gasp — the tiny outfits that feel almost too cute to put on an actual baby, because what if they spit up on it?
This kitty cat pinafore dress is exactly that kind of project: a sweet mint green pinafore with an adorable crocheted cat face on the bib, plus little fish appliques on the skirt that look like the kitty’s snacks. The whole thing layers over a simple white onesie or long sleeve top — and I will admit, every time I see it I just want to squeeze something.
Best part? It looks impressive, but the construction is totally doable. You will work the main body in simple moss stitch, then add the sweet details separately and sew them on at the end. No complicated colorwork while you’re counting stitches — just straightforward pieces that come together into something absolutely precious.
Why You’ll Love This Crochet Pattern
This pinafore dress hits that sweet spot between “looks like it took forever” and “I can actually finish this.” The moss stitch makes beautiful texture without anything fancy to learn, and since the appliques are worked separately, you can take your time perfecting that little cat face with zero pressure.
Practical details included: button closures at the shoulder straps make dressing a wiggly baby much easier, the slightly flared skirt leaves plenty of room for crawling and toddling, and since it’s a pinafore rather than a full dress, you can layer it over different tops for different looks.
Perfect for gift giving — this pattern makes a keepsake-quality garment any new parent will treasure. The finished size fits babies 12 to 18 months, with sizing notes for up or down.
Skill Level
This one is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with flat pieces, seaming, basic shaping with increases and decreases, working in the round for the appliques, and surface embroidery for the cat face details.
Don’t let that scare you off if you’re a confident beginner, though. The main body is just single crochet and chains in a repeating pattern. The trickiest parts are really keeping track of stitch counts and taking your time with the embroidered details at the end.
Finished Measurements
Size: 12 to 18 months
– Chest circumference (pinafore, flat measurement doubled): approximately 20 inches / 51 cm
– Total length (waist to hem): approximately 9 inches / 23 cm
– Bib height (waistband top to strap base): approximately 4 inches / 10 cm
– Strap length: approximately 7 inches / 18 cm
– Total garment length including bib and straps: approximately 14 inches / 36 cm
Materials Needed
Yarn
- Main Color (MC): Mint green, approximately 300 yards / 275 meters of DK weight (light worsted / #3) yarn
- Contrast Color A (CA): Cream or off-white, approximately 80 yards / 73 meters of DK weight yarn
- Contrast Color B (CB): Light pink, approximately 10 yards / 9 meters of DK weight yarn
- Small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread for cat face details (eyes, nose outline, whiskers)
Hooks
- US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook (for appliques and fine detail)
- US size F-5 / 3.75 mm crochet hook (for main body)
Additional Materials
- 4 wooden buttons, approximately 3/4 inch / 18 mm diameter (2 for strap tops, 2 decorative or functional at waist back if desired)
- Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
- Pink and black embroidery thread or yarn for cat face embroidery
- Optional: small amount of fiberfill for lightly padding cat face applique
Yarn Suggestions
Any DK weight yarn that achieves gauge will work beautifully. Here are a few I recommend:
Lion Brand Pound of Love in Mint and Fisherman is machine washable, widely available, and holds stitch definition well — ideal for baby garments.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Spearmint Green and Champagne White offers excellent stitch clarity, consistent tension, and a budget-friendly price point.
Drops Baby Merino in mint and natural feels wonderfully soft against baby skin. The slight halo adds charm to the texture, though it calls for gentle machine wash or hand wash.
Important: steer clear of novelty or fuzzy yarns — they hide the moss stitch texture and make applique attachment difficult.
Gauge
With F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and MC, in moss stitch pattern:
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm (blocked)
With E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and CA, in single crochet:
20 stitches and 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
Gauge is critical for a well-fitting garment, so please make and block a gauge swatch before beginning. I know skipping is tempting, but baby sizing is unforgiving and you’ll thank yourself later.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
Before the step-by-step instructions, here’s every abbreviation you’ll meet — defined so you know exactly what to do.
– BLO – back loop only (insert your hook under just the back loop of the stitch, which is the loop farthest from you)
– ch – chain (yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook)
– dc – double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice)
– dec – decrease (sc2tog unless otherwise noted)
– hdc – half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
– inc – increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
– MC – main color
– CA – contrast color A (cream)
– CB – contrast color B (pink)
– rep – repeat
– rnd – round
– RS – right side (the public-facing side of your work)
– sc – single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
– sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together (insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook)
– sk – skip
– sl st – slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook)
– sp – space
– st(s) – stitch(es)
– WS – wrong side
– yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Moss Stitch (also called Linen Stitch or Granite Stitch)
This is the primary texture stitch for the skirt and bib body — a lovely woven look that’s sturdier than basic single crochet.
Row 1 (foundation): Ch an even number. Sc in second ch from hook, (ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch) across. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across, ending sc in last sc. Turn.
Every sc sits over a sc and every ch-1 sp over a ch-1 sp of the previous row. Row-end stitch counts are sc stitches only (not ch-1 spaces) unless otherwise noted.
Back Loop Only Single Crochet (BLO sc)
Insert hook under the back loop only (the loop farthest from you) of the indicated stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through both loops on hook — this creates the ribbed texture for the waistband.
Adjustable Ring (Magic Ring)
Make a loop with the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Insert hook through the loop, yo and pull up a loop, ch 1 (or as specified) to begin. Work stitches into the loop and pull the tail to close the ring tightly.
Pattern Notes
Read through these before starting — they’ll save you confusion later.
Work the pinafore skirt flat (back and forth in rows), beginning at the hem and working up to the waist. The hem is slightly wider and tapers toward the waist with evenly spaced decreases.
Work the waistband in BLO sc rows attached to the top edge of the skirt for a subtle ribbed texture.
Work the bib flat upward from the waistband, narrowing to shape the bib, then dividing for two straps.
Make all appliques (cat face, ears, fish) separately with the smaller hook and attach with a yarn needle after all main pieces are blocked.
When the pattern says “turn,” turn the work and make a chain for the next row unless otherwise specified.
For the moss stitch section, row-end counts are sc stitches only. The full working count including ch-1 spaces is (sc count x 2) minus 1.
The skirt is a flat rectangle with shaping, seamed at the center back with a short lower seam — leave the upper 3 inches / 7.5 cm open or close it with a button for ease of dressing.
RS is the smooth, public-facing side of the single crochet fabric.
Crochet Pattern Instructions
Skirt
Work the skirt flat in moss stitch, starting at the hem edge and shaping up toward the waist. The hem measures about 22 inches / 56 cm wide (flat, single layer).
Foundation Chain: With F-5 hook and MC, ch 101.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (ch 1, sk 1, sc in next ch) across. Turn. (50 sc, 49 ch-1 sps = 99 working sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across. Turn. (50 sc)
Rows 3 through 8: Rep Row 2. (50 sc each row)
Row 9 (decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog over first sc and next ch-1 sp (treat the ch-1 sp as a stitch space: insert hook in first sc, pull up loop, insert hook in ch-1 sp, pull up loop, yo and draw through all 3 loops), (ch 1, sk 0, sc in next sc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across to last 4 sts, ch 1, sc2tog over next sc and final sc. Turn. (48 sc)
Note on decreasing in moss stitch: To decrease while maintaining the pattern, work sc2tog by inserting hook into one sc and then the next sc (skipping the ch-1 sp between them), completing the sc2tog normally. This eliminates one sc and one ch-1 sp, reducing stitch count by 1 sc per decrease worked. Work 2 decreases per decrease row, one at each end.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across. Turn. (48 sc)
Rows 11 through 16: Rep Row 10. (48 sc)
Row 17 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (46 sc)
Rows 18 through 23: Rep Row 10. (46 sc)
Row 25 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (44 sc)
Rows 26 through 28: Rep Row 10. (44 sc)
Row 29 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (42 sc)
Rows 30 through 32: Rep Row 10. (42 sc)
Row 33 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (40 sc)
Rows 34 through 36: Rep Row 10. (40 sc)
Row 37 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (38 sc)
Row 38: Rep Row 10. (38 sc)
Row 39 (decrease row): Dec at each end as established. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 40: Rep Row 10. (36 sc)
Fasten off. This is the waist edge of the skirt.
CHECKPOINT: The skirt should measure approximately 8 inches / 20.5 cm tall from hem to waist edge and approximately 16 inches / 40.5 cm wide at the waist edge (flat). The hem should measure approximately 22 inches / 56 cm wide (flat). Block lightly before continuing.
Waistband
Work the waistband in BLO sc rows across the waist edge of the skirt — a ribbed band about 1 inch / 2.5 cm tall.
Attach MC to top-right corner of skirt waist edge with RS facing.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc evenly across waist edge, working 1 sc per sc stitch and 1 sc per ch-1 sp across. You should have 71 sc across. Turn. (71 sc)
Note: working into both the sc stitches and ch-1 spaces of the final moss stitch row gives the waistband a denser base.
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sc in each sc across. Turn. (71 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sc in each sc across. Turn. (71 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, BLO sc in each sc across. Turn. (71 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sc in each sc across. Turn. (71 sc)
Do not fasten off. Continue immediately to bib construction.
CHECKPOINT: waistband about 1 inch / 2.5 cm tall, ribbed texture visible on the RS.
Bib / Bodice Front
Work the bib upward from the center of the waistband top edge in moss stitch — a rectangular panel about 8 inches / 20.5 cm wide and 4 inches / 10 cm tall — then divide for two straps.
With RS facing, count to center of waistband. The bib begins 18 sts in from left edge and ends 18 sts in from right edge, worked over the center 35 sts.
Setup Row: With RS facing and working across waistband top, sl st across first 18 sts, ch 1, sc in same st (this is the 19th st), (ch 1, sk 1, sc in next) across until 18 sts remain unworked at right end. Turn. (18 sc for bib, 17 ch-1 sps)
Note: You have 18 sc in the bib panel, worked over 35 stitches of the waistband.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across. Turn. (18 sc)
Rows 2 through 18: Rep Row 1. (18 sc each row)
CHECKPOINT: bib panel about 4 inches / 10 cm tall from the waistband top; 18 sc wide, about 8 inches / 20.5 cm at gauge.
After Row 18, divide for straps.
Strap Division
Left Strap
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next sc. Turn, working only over these first 4 sc (7 working sts including ch-1 sps). (4 sc)
Rows 2 through 34: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) 3 times. Turn. (4 sc)
Button Loop Row: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, ch 3 (button loop), sk next sc, sc in last sc. Turn. (4 sc with button loop)
Final Row: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, ch 1, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in last sc. Turn. (4 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Right Strap
Skip 10 center sc of bib top (these remain as the center bib top), attach MC to 15th sc of bib top.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) 3 times. Turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2 through 34: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) 3 times. Turn. (4 sc)
Button Loop Row: Work same as Left Strap Button Loop Row. (4 sc with button loop)
Final Row: Work same as Left Strap Final Row. (4 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail.
CHECKPOINT: each strap about 7 inches / 18 cm long and 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm wide.
Skirt Back Panel
The back panel matches the skirt front but without the bib: work a back skirt panel the same as the Skirt instructions (Rows 1 through 40), then add the Waistband (Rows 1 through 5) on top. Fasten off after the waistband — this back waistband edge seams to the front waistband at the sides.
Back Straps
Attach MC at right edge of back waistband, 18 sts from the right edge. Work a 4-sc-wide moss stitch strap identical to the front straps for Rows 1 through 34. On the final row, work 1 sc in each sc (4 sc straight row for button placement). Sew 2 buttons to the RS of back strap ends, aligned to button loops on front straps.
Repeat for left back strap.
Assembly of Main Body
Seam skirt: with yarn needle and MC, seam the right side edge of front skirt to the right side edge of back skirt using mattress stitch for about 6 inches / 15 cm up from the hem, leaving the upper 2 inches / 5 cm open at each side for arm ease. Seam the left side identically. Weave in ends.
The side seams already connect the front and back waistbands — they hold the front and back together.
Seam center back (optional): for a fitted look, seam the center-back waistband edges together for 1 inch / 2.5 cm and add a button-and-loop closure at the top of the back waistband for easy dressing.
Bow Appliques (make 2)
With E-4 hook and MC, ch 19.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (18 sc)
Rows 2 through 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (18 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Pinch the rectangle firmly at the center to form the bow shape, wrap the tail yarn around the center 6 to 8 times tightly, and knot securely on the WS. Sew one bow to the top-front of each strap (at the strap/bib join) with a yarn needle — loops horizontal, pointing left and right.
Cat Face Applique
Worked in the round with E-4 hook and CA.
Rnd 1: Make adjustable ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, pull tail to close. Sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next sc, inc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st to first sc. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, inc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sc, inc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st to first sc. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sc, inc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sc, inc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st to first sc. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc. (42 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The circle should be about 3.5 inches / 9 cm in diameter.
Cat Ears (make 2)
With E-4 hook and CA.
Ch 2.
Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (5 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (7 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 6 (inner ear color change): Drop CA. With E-4 hook and CB, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (7 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (5 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (2 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The ear is a small triangle about 1.25 inches / 3 cm tall and 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm wide at the base.
Fish Appliques (make 2)
With E-4 hook and CA.
Ch 12.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 9 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (13 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 11 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (13 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (11 sc)
This forms the body of the fish. Do not fasten off.
Fish Tail
Ch 1, turn work 90 degrees. Work along the left short edge: 4 sc evenly down the edge. Turn. (4 sc)
Row 1: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, inc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, inc in last sc. Turn. (8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog. Turn. (4 sc)
Fasten off tail yarn, leaving long sewing tail.
Add stripe detail: with CA and a yarn needle (or a separate yarn color), use running stitch or slip stitch along the fish body RS to make 3 to 4 horizontal stripes. Alternatively, use surface slip stitch in a slightly darker CA yarn for stripe texture.
Each fish should be about 3 inches / 7.5 cm long and 1.5 inches / 4 cm tall at the widest point.
Cat Face Details
Before sewing the cat face to the bib, add embroidered details:
Eyes: Using black yarn or embroidery thread, embroider two small circles or French knots approximately 0.75 inches / 2 cm apart and 0.5 inches / 1.5 cm above center of the circle. For children under 3, use embroidery rather than buttons due to choking hazard.
Nose: Using CB (pink), embroider a small inverted triangle shape at the center of the face, approximately 0.25 inches / 0.5 cm wide.
Mouth: Using black yarn, embroider a Y-shape below the nose: a short vertical line down from the nose tip, then two short diagonal lines curving outward and slightly upward to form a cat mouth.
Whiskers: Using black yarn, embroider 3 long straight lines radiating from each side of the nose area (6 whiskers total), each approximately 0.75 inches / 2 cm long.
Applique Placement and Attachment
Cat face: center the cat face circle on the bib panel, about 0.5 inches / 1.5 cm below the strap join. Pin in place and sew around the entire perimeter with whipstitch or mattress stitch in CA yarn. Before closing, stuff lightly with a bit of fiberfill for a subtle dimensional effect if you like, then close.
Cat ears: place one ear upper-left and one upper-right of the cat face circle, slightly overlapping the circle edge — the ear base should overlap by about 0.25 inches / 0.5 cm. Sew each ear base securely to the bib and to the circle.
Fish appliques: place one fish on the left pocket area of the skirt, about 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm up from the hem and 1.5 inches / 4 cm in from the left side seam; mirror on the right. Both fish face inward (tails toward the side seams). Sew each fish around its entire perimeter with CA yarn and whipstitch.
Bows: sew one bow centered on top of each front strap, where the strap meets the bib shoulder area.
Buttons: sew 2 buttons onto the RS of the back strap ends, aligned with the ch-3 button loops on the front straps — 0.5 inches / 1.5 cm from the strap end.
Size Customization Tips
To size down to 6 to 12 months: Reduce the starting chain by 10 stitches (ch 91 instead of 101) and work fewer decrease rows in the skirt to maintain proportion. Reduce bib width by 2 sc and strap length by 4 rows.
To size up to 2T to 3T: Increase the starting chain by 10 stitches (ch 111) and add 2 additional decrease rows. Add 4 to 6 rows to the strap length. Increase the bib width by 2 sc.
General rule: At gauge, each 2 sc added to or removed from the starting chain changes the flat width by approximately 0.5 inches / 1.5 cm. Each 2 rows added to or removed from the skirt changes the length by approximately 0.4 inches / 1 cm.
If using a heavier worsted weight yarn, go up to a G-6 / 4 mm hook and expect to reduce stitch counts proportionally.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely with a tapestry needle, running tails back and forth through stitches in different directions so nothing unravels.
Wet block the skirt and bib panels before attaching appliques: submerge in cool water, squeeze out excess moisture gently, lay flat on a blocking board, pin to finished measurements, and let dry completely. This evens out the moss stitch texture and sets the shaping.
Appliques may be lightly steam-blocked with a pressing cloth before attachment.
Once every applique and button is on, give the garment a final light steam press on the WS only, avoiding embroidered and stuffed areas.
Care Instructions
- Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water if using acrylic yarn
- Hand wash in cool water if using merino or wool-blend yarn
- Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, wring, or hang (hanging stretches the garment)
- Do not iron directly on appliques or embroidery
- Remove buttons and sew on replacement buttons if they show wear over time
Time Estimate
Approximately 10 to 14 hours for an experienced intermediate crocheter, broken into:
– Skirt: 3 to 4 hours
– Waistband and bodice: 2 hours
– Straps and bows: 1 hour
– Appliques: 2 to 3 hours
– Finishing and assembly: 1 to 2 hours
This is a perfect week-or-two of evening crochet sessions. The appliques are especially great TV work — small and not much counting.
Final Thoughts on This Crochet Tutorial
This kitty cat pinafore dress is one of those projects that looks way more complicated than it is. Yes, there are multiple pieces, and yes, there’s embroidery — but each piece is straightforward, and the magic happens when it all comes together at the end.
Take your time with the cat face details — that’s where the personality lives. And don’t stress if your first fish looks a little wonky: the second one always turns out better, and slightly imperfect handmade details just add to the charm.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you love making it as much as I love stitching sweet little pieces like this one.
