This top-down baby dress has a textured puff cluster bodice, an open fan lace skirt, and scallop edging in white — all in worsted weight yarn on a 4.0 mm hook. Once you understand the raglan yoke shaping and the fan lace repeat, the construction is nice and straightforward.
That lovely dense texture of vintage baby garments comes from the puff clusters. The fan shells let the skirt flare out naturally, and the white edging frames everything beautifully.
Double crochet and a repeating pattern are all you need to make this dress. Every single step is covered below.
Pattern Details at a Glance
Skill Level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 0 to 6 months
- Chest circumference: approximately 16 inches / 40.5 cm
- Length shoulder to hem: approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm
- Sleeve opening circumference: approximately 6 inches / 15 cm
- Waist circumference: approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm
Time Estimate: 12 to 18 hours for an experienced intermediate crocheter
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- Main Color (MC, lavender): approximately 300 yards / 275 meters
- Contrast Color (CC, white): approximately 80 yards / 73 meters
A smooth, tightly spun cotton or cotton-blend yarn works best for stitch definition in the puff clusters and fan lace.
Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm crochet hook
Notions:
- Stitch markers, 6 to 8 locking style
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- 1 yard / 91 cm of 5/8-inch / 1.5 cm wide white satin ribbon
- 1 pearl bead, approximately 8 mm, for flower center
- Sewing needle and white thread to secure bead
- Scissors
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: A 100 percent mercerized cotton yarn in lavender and white. This has excellent stitch definition and is machine washable. 186 yards per 3.5 oz / 100 g skein.
Option 2: A smooth acrylic-cotton blend DK yarn used at a tight gauge on a G hook. This produces crisp stitch definition. 137 yards per 1.76 oz / 50 g skein.
Option 3: A 100 percent Pima cotton yarn in lavender. Silky smooth and excellent for baby garments. 220 yards per 3.5 oz / 100 g skein.
Go with a worsted weight yarn that feels gentle on skin and has a smooth, tight twist. Fuzzy or heavily textured yarns will swallow those puff clusters and fan lace whole.
Gauge
In single crochet (sc), blocked: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm using MC and G-6 / 4.0 mm hook.
In fan lace pattern (skirt), blocked: 1 fan repeat (12 stitches) = 3 inches / 7.5 cm wide; 2 fan rows = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm tall.
Gauge is critical for correct fit. Always swatch and adjust hook size as needed.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
Before we dive into the step by step instructions, let me explain every stitch and abbreviation you will encounter:
- beg = beginning
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain (wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook)
- ch-sp = chain space (the gap created by a chain stitch)
- dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice)
- hdc = half double crochet
- MC = main color
- CC = contrast color
- pc = puff cluster (see Special Stitches below)
- pm = place marker
- rem = remaining
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- tog = together
- yo = yarn over
- WS = wrong side
Special Stitches for This Baby Dress Pattern
Puff Cluster (pc)
This creates that beautiful textured bodice. Here is exactly how to work it:
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space.
Step 2: Yarn over, pull up a loop to approximately 1/2 inch / 1.3 cm tall. You now have 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch or space.
Step 4: Yarn over, pull up a loop to same height. You now have 5 loops on hook.
Step 5: Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch or space.
Step 6: Yarn over, pull up a loop to same height. You now have 7 loops on hook.
Step 7: Yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook. Puff cluster made.
Step 8: Chain 1 to close. This closing chain counts as the top of the puff cluster.
Fan Shell (fan)
In the indicated stitch or space, work: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc). This creates 5 double crochets with 4 chain-1 spaces between them, forming a fan shape.
Scallop Edging
Step 1: Slip stitch into first stitch.
Step 2: Chain 3, work 4 dc into same stitch. You now have 5 dc total in that stitch.
Step 3: Skip 2 stitches.
Step 4: Slip stitch into next stitch.
Step 5: Repeat steps 2 through 4 across or around.
Crocheted Flower
Round 1: Using CC, make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2: (Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st) 6 times. (6 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew pearl bead to center. Set aside for finishing.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Work the dress top-down in joined rounds, with the right side facing out throughout.
At the end of each round, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning chain or to the first stitch as indicated, then chain the right number for the next round — chain 1 for sc rounds, chain 3 for dc rounds. The beginning chain counts as the first stitch only when the pattern says so.
Mark the four raglan division points during the yoke — it makes increasing so much easier.
The waist ribbon eyelet row makes decorative slots for threading the ribbon — do not skip this round.
The skirt’s fan lace repeat is a multiple of 12 stitches, so the stitch count at the base of the bodice must be divisible by 12 before you start the skirt. The pattern takes care of it — just follow the counts exactly.
Crochet Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Neckline Foundation
Using MC, ch 56 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist.
Chain 56 for the neckline, then divide it up: 10 stitches for the front right yoke, 8 for the right sleeve, 20 for the back yoke, 8 for the left sleeve, and 10 for the front left yoke.
Round 1 (Setup): Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. (56 sc)
Place markers after stitch 10, after stitch 18, after stitch 38, and after stitch 46 — these are your raglan points.
Round 2 (Raglan Increase Round 1): Ch 1, sc in each st to 1 st before first marker, 2 sc in next st, move marker, 2 sc in next st, sc to 1 st before next marker, 2 sc in next st, move marker, 2 sc in next st, sc to 1 st before next marker, 2 sc in next st, move marker, 2 sc in next st, sc to 1 st before next marker, 2 sc in next st, move marker, 2 sc in next st, sc to end, join. (64 sc)
Each raglan point gains 2 stitches per increase round — 8 stitches added per raglan round in total.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sc)
Round 4 (Raglan Increase Round 2): Repeat Round 2 increase method. (72 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (72 sc)
Round 6 (Raglan Increase Round 3): Repeat Round 2 increase method. (80 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sc)
Round 8 (Raglan Increase Round 4): Repeat Round 2 increase method. (88 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (88 sc)
Round 10 (Raglan Increase Round 5): Repeat Round 2 increase method. (96 sc)
After Round 10 the distribution should be: 20 stitches per front yoke section (40 front total), 18 per sleeve section (36 sleeves total), 20 back yoke. Double-check before moving on.
Checkpoint: After Round 10, the neckline foundation plus yoke increase section should measure approximately 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm from the cast-on edge, with 96 stitches total.
Section 2: Bodice Yoke Puff Cluster Section
The puff cluster bodice starts here — the sleeves are not separated yet.
Round 11 (Begin Puff Cluster Pattern): Ch 1, (pc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, ending with sl st to top of first pc. (48 puff clusters, 48 ch-1 spaces = 96 stitch positions)
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in top of each pc and in each ch-1 sp around, join. (96 sc)
Round 13: Ch 1, (pc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, join to top of first pc. (48 pc, 48 ch-1 spaces)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in top of each pc and in each ch-1 sp around, join. (96 sc)
Round 15: Ch 1, (pc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, join. (48 pc, 48 ch-1 spaces)
Round 16: Ch 1, sc in top of each pc and in each ch-1 sp around, join. (96 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 16, your bodice yoke should measure approximately 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm from the cast-on edge.
Section 3: Sleeve Separation
On the next round, you will skip the sleeve stitches and replace them with underarm chains.
Round 17 (Sleeve Separation): Ch 1, sc across first 20 sts (front), ch 4, skip the 18 sleeve stitches on the right side, pm in the first skipped st for sleeve pickup later, sc across next 20 sts (back), ch 4, skip the remaining 18 sleeve stitches on the left side, pm in the first skipped st, join with sl st to first sc. (40 sc across body + 4 ch + 4 ch = 48 working stitches)
Round 18: Ch 1, sc in each of the 20 front sts, sc in each of the 4 underarm chs, sc in each of the 20 back sts, sc in each of the 4 underarm chs, join. (48 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 18, the piece should measure approximately 5.5 inches / 14 cm from the cast-on edge. The chest circumference should be approximately 12 inches / 30.5 cm.
Section 4: Waist Band and Ribbon Eyelet
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc)
Round 20 (Eyelet Round for Ribbon): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk 1, dc in next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st) around to last st, ch 1, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc, 24 ch-1 spaces = 48 stitch positions)
Round 21: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, join. (48 sc)
Round 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 22, the waist band section is complete. The piece should measure approximately 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm from the cast-on edge.
Section 5: Skirt Setup Increase Round
The skirt needs a stitch count divisible by 12, and the current count is 48 — more stitches needed for proper flare.
Round 23 (Skirt Setup): Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (96 sc)
96 divided by 12 = 8 fan repeats. Just right.
Section 6: Skirt Fan Lace Pattern
Now for the beautiful lace section — the fan lace pattern repeat works over 12 stitches.
Round 24 (Fan Round 1): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 more dc in same st (beg half-fan), sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, (fan in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts) 7 times, 2 dc in same st as beg ch-3 (complete beginning fan by adding 2 dc to the ch-3 dc), join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (8 fans, 8 sc = 48 working sts)
The beginning ch-3 and the 2 additional dc at the start, combined with the 2 dc added at the end into the base of the beg ch-3, form one complete beginning fan of 5 dc.
Round 25 (Transition Round): Ch 1, work sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp of the previous round’s fans, and sc into each sc anchor. Each fan of 5 dc with 4 ch-1 sps = 9 positions. 8 fans x 9 = 72, plus 8 sc anchors = 80 sc, join. (80 sc)
Round 26 (revised): Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 16 times, join. (96 sc)
Round 27 (Fan Round 2): Ch 3 (counts as first dc of beg fan), 2 dc in same st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, (fan in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2) 7 times, 2 dc in base of beg ch-3, join. (8 fans, 8 sc = 48 working sts)
Round 28 (Transition Round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp and in each sc anchor around, join. (80 sc)
Round 29 (Increase Round): Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 16 times, join. (96 sc)
Round 30 (Fan Round 3): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, (fan in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2) 7 times, 2 dc in base of beg ch-3, join. (8 fans, 8 sc = 48 working sts)
Round 31 (Transition Round): Ch 1, sc in each position as established, join. (80 sc)
Round 32 (Increase Round): Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 16 times, join. (96 sc)
Round 33 (Fan Round 4): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, (fan in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2) 7 times, 2 dc in base of beg ch-3, join. (8 fans, 8 sc = 48 working sts)
Round 34 (Transition Round): Ch 1, sc in each position as established, join. (80 sc)
Round 35 (Increase Round): Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 16 times, join. (96 sc)
Round 36 (Fan Round 5, Final Fan Round): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, (fan in next st, sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2) 7 times, 2 dc in base of beg ch-3, join. (8 fans, 8 sc = 48 working sts)
Checkpoint: After Round 36, the skirt should measure approximately 7 inches / 18 cm from the waist band. Total dress length from cast-on should be approximately 13.5 to 14 inches / 34 to 35.5 cm.
Section 7: Hem Scallop Edging
Work the hem edging using CC.
Join CC with sl st to the top of any dc in the final fan round.
Round 37 (Hem Edging): Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp and each sc anchor position around, join with sl st. (80 sc)
Round 38 (Scallop Round): Sl st into first sc, (ch 3, 4 dc in same sc, sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc) around, join. Work approximately 27 scallops by working sk 2 for most repeats and sk 1 between 2 repeats as needed to keep edging flat and even. Fasten off CC.
Section 8: Sleeve Edging
Back to the marked sleeve stitches — 18 held plus 4 underarm chains, 22 stitches around each sleeve opening.
Join MC with sl st to first marked sleeve stitch.
Sleeve Edging Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each of the 18 sleeve sts, sc in each of the 4 underarm chs, join. (22 sc)
Join CC.
Sleeve Edging Round 2 (Scallop): (Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sk 2, sl st in next st) around, adjusting end to meet evenly, join. Fasten off CC.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Section 9: Neckline Scallop Edging
Join CC at back of neckline with sl st.
Neckline Edging Round: (Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sk 2 sts of the foundation neckline edge, sl st in next st) around, adjusting as needed for even scallops, join. Fasten off CC.
Work into the underside of the foundation chain or into Round 1 of sc — whichever gives the cleanest result. The neckline’s 56 foundation stitches divided by 3 = approximately 18 scallops.
Section 10: Waist Ribbon and Flower
Weave the satin ribbon in and out through all 24 ch-1 eyelet spaces of Round 20 around the waist. Center it so equal lengths hang at the front, then tie a bow or secure with a knot.
Thread the yarn tail through a yarn needle and attach the completed flower to the ribbon at the front center, sitting centered on the ribbon.
Sew the pearl bead to the center of the flower using sewing thread and needle.
Finishing Your Baby Dress
Weave in all yarn ends securely with a yarn needle, then trim.
For wet blocking, soak the dress 10 minutes in cool water, gently squeeze out the water (no wringing), lay it flat on a blocking mat, and shape to the finished measurements. Use rust-proof pins to hold the scallop edging points and the skirt’s fan lace open. Then leave it to dry fully flat — a full 24 hours at least.
Blocking is what lets the fan lace open fully and the scallop edging lie flat — take my word for it.
Size Customization Tips
To size up to 6 to 12 months: Work 2 additional raglan increase rounds for a yoke circumference of approximately 112 stitches. For the sleeves, leave 22 stitches each and 34 each for front and back — 68 body stitches after separation. At the waist setup, increase to 108 stitches (9 fan repeats) with 1 extra fan round in the skirt. Total length will be approximately 16 to 17 inches / 40.5 to 43 cm.
To size up to 12 to 18 months: Add 3 more raglan rounds (8 increase rounds total). Skirt: 9 fan repeats plus 2 extra fan rounds.
To lengthen only: Work extra fan rounds before the hem edging — each fan-and-transition round pair adds approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm in length.
To adjust width only: Change hook size by half a millimeter (larger for more width, smaller for less) and recheck gauge.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Dress
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water in a mesh laundry bag, or hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, wring, or iron directly on textured areas.
Cotton yarn softens and the lace relaxes beautifully after the first wash — re-blocking after washing is recommended.
Pull the ribbon out before the wash and thread it back through once dry — that avoids dye transfer or shrinkage.
Thank you for making this lavender lace baby dress. I hope you enjoy every stitch — watching that fan lace skirt grow round by round is pure joy.
