I do not know about you, but I have a serious weakness for bags that look like they belong in a cottage garden. Florals and soft purple tones just feel right to me — especially in something handmade.
So unexpected, that cylinder shape; so satisfying, that dense texture; and those embroidered wildflower end caps take it all the way to perfect.
If you have been searching for a crochet bag pattern that feels sophisticated without being fussy, this is the one — and I will walk you through every single step.
About This Lavender Barrel Purse Crochet Pattern
This gorgeous cylindrical handbag features a modified moss stitch (also called linen stitch or granite stitch) that makes the tight, woven-looking fabric in the photos. Once you settle into the rhythm, the construction feels surprisingly straightforward.
The main body is worked as a seamless tube in the round, then two flat circular end caps are made separately. The end caps get embellished with either embroidered wildflower fabric panels or hand-stitched floral motifs. Finished with floral-wrapped handles, silver hardware, a zipper closure, and a butterfly tassel — a true statement piece.
The finished bag measures approximately 12 inches long with a 5-inch diameter — the perfect size for everyday essentials. Think classic doctor bag or Boston bag silhouette — but as a horizontal cylinder.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated Advanced Beginner to Intermediate. The stitch pattern itself is simple and meditative once you get going; the parts that need a bit more confidence are working joined rounds, seaming circular pieces, and installing a zipper with hardware.
Completed at least one structured bag or accessory project before? You will feel right at home here.
Time Estimate
Budget 10 to 16 hours total, depending on your finishing experience. The crochet body works up quickly once you establish your rhythm; budget an extra 2 to 3 hours for all the finishing work, zipper installation, and embellishments.
Finished Measurements
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Body length (side to side): approximately 12 inches / 30.5 cm
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Body circumference: approximately 16 inches / 40.5 cm
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Body diameter (end cap): approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm
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Handle drop: approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm
These measurements reflect the bag in its resting position, lying on its side as designed.
Materials Needed
Yarn:
- Main Color (MC): Approximately 350 yards / 320 meters of worsted weight (Category 4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in soft lavender
Hook:
- US Size G-6 / 4.00 mm crochet hook (adjust as needed to achieve gauge)
Notions:
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Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends
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Stitch markers (4 to 6)
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One 10-inch / 25.5 cm zipper in lavender or coordinating color
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Two 1-inch / 2.5 cm silver-tone D-rings
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Two 1-inch / 2.5 cm silver-tone swivel clips or lobster clasps (optional for detachable handles)
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Four to six silver-tone rivets or Chicago screws for handle attachment
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One set of floral fabric-wrapped handles, approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm long
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One silver butterfly charm
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One silver chain tassel, approximately 3 inches / 7.5 cm long
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Coordinating floral fabric for end cap panels: two circles cut to 5 inches / 12.5 cm diameter plus 0.5-inch / 1.25 cm seam allowance, OR embroidery floss in purple, yellow, green, and white
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Lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)
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Sewing needle and thread in lavender
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Fabric glue or craft adhesive (optional)
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Pins
Yarn Suggestions
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Option 1: A 100 percent mercerized cotton in lavender. This is smooth, sturdy, and holds stitch definition beautifully.
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Option 2: A DK weight yarn held double — a worsted-weight equivalent with excellent stitch clarity.
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Option 3: A petite wool yarn in a lavender colorway. If you prefer a softer hand, use a hook one size smaller to maintain gauge.
Substitution Note: Go for a yarn that is firm and smooth with minimal halo or texture — no fuzzy or stretchy yarns. Cotton or cotton-acrylic blends work best for structured bags.
Gauge
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in linen stitch worked flat with US G-6 / 4.00 mm hook, after blocking.
Work a flat swatch of at least 5 by 5 inches, block it, and measure in the center away from edges. Gauge is critical here — each 1-stitch-per-4-inch variation shifts the finished circumference by approximately 0.9 inch.
Abbreviations
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beg: beginning
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ch: chain
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ch-sp: chain space
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cont: continue
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dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
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dec: decrease
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inc: increase
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MC: main color
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pm: place marker
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rem: remaining
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rep: repeat
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rnd: round
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RS: right side
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sc: single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
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sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in second stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
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sk: skip
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sl st: slip stitch
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sm: stitch marker
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sp: space
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st(s): stitch(es)
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WS: wrong side
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yo: yarn over
Special Stitches
Linen Stitch In The Round
This creates a tight, woven-looking fabric perfect for bags. Since you do not turn between rounds, all rounds are worked from the right side.
Rnd 1: Sc in first st, (ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st) around, end with ch 1, sk 1 st, sl st to first sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) around, end ch 1, sk last ch-1 sp, sl st to first sc.
Repeat Rnd 2 for pattern. One single crochet (sc) plus one chain-1 space (ch-1 sp) counts as 2 stitches for counting purposes.
Magic Ring
Make an adjustable loop. Insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, chain 1 to secure. Work stitches into the ring, then pull the tail to close the center hole — a nice tight center for your circles.
Whipstitch Seam
Hold two pieces with wrong sides together. Insert the tapestry needle through one stitch on each piece simultaneously and draw the yarn through. Continue around through corresponding stitches. For this bag, hold the pieces with right sides together when seaming so the ridge stays inside.
Pattern Notes
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The bag body is a seamless tube worked in the round using linen stitch.
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For a stiffer bag, work at a tighter gauge or add a fabric lining — a simple lining dramatically improves durability and shape retention.
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End caps can be decorated two ways: apply pre-printed floral fabric circles, or embroider the wildflower motifs directly onto the crocheted caps.
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The zipper runs along the top length of the barrel — quick and simple.
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All stitch counts refer to sc stitches only; chain-1 spaces are implied.
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Join each round with a slip stitch to the first sc unless otherwise instructed — and do not turn between rounds.
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Place a stitch marker in the first sc of each round to track round beginnings.
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Weave in ends as you go — cotton ends can loosen, so weave each tail at least 1 inch in two directions.
Step by Step Instructions
Section 1: Main Body Tube
The body is crocheted as a tube by working a foundation chain, joining into a ring, and continuing in rounds.
Foundation Chain: With MC and G-6 hook, ch 73. Sl st to first ch (being careful not to twist) to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (Setup): Ch 1, sc in same ch, (ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch) around, end ch 1, sk last ch, sl st to first sc. (36 sc, 36 ch-1 spaces, 72 working positions total)
Checkpoint: Your ring should measure approximately 16 inches in circumference. Lay it flat and measure across the diameter — it should be approximately 5 inches.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) around, ch 1, sk last ch-1 sp, sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnds 3-61: Repeat Rnd 2 until body measures 12 inches from foundation chain.
At a gauge of 20 rows per 4 inches, you need 60 total rounds — and trust me, they fly by once you find the rhythm.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Checkpoint: The tube should measure 12 inches long and 5 inches in diameter when laid flat, and the linen stitch texture should look like a tight, woven grid.
Section 2: End Caps (Make 2)
Each end cap is a flat circle worked in sc with increases to keep it flat.
Magic Ring: Make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. Sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (42 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (42 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (48 sc)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (48 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, (sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (54 sc)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (54 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, (sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (60 sc)
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (60 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, (sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (66 sc)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (66 sc) (plain round)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, (sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. Sl st to first sc. (72 sc)
Fasten off first cap. Leave second cap attached if joining immediately.
Checkpoint: Each cap should lie flat without cupping or ruffling, with a diameter of approximately 5 inches.
Section 3: Joining End Caps to Tube
With RS facing outward on both pieces, align one end cap to one open end of the tube — the 72 stitches should match up. Pin in place at four equally spaced points.
Using a tapestry needle and MC, whipstitch around the full circumference, joining corresponding stitches and working through both loops of each stitch on both pieces.
Repeat for second end cap on opposite end.
Checkpoint: The bag should now be a complete closed barrel shape with no gaps at the seams.
Section 4: Zipper Installation
Position a 10-inch zipper centered along the top of the tube, spanning the length between the end caps. Leave approximately 1 inch of crochet at each end beyond the zipper stops.
Using a sewing needle and matching thread, pin the zipper tape to the inside of the crochet fabric with the zipper pull on the outside, then hand-sew using a backstitch along both sides. Keep the stitches small so they do not show on the right side.
Attach the silver chain tassel to the zipper pull using a jump ring, and the butterfly charm to the tassel chain.
Section 5: Handle Attachment
Mark the top of the tube at two points, each approximately 3 inches from center top, on each side of the zipper. These are your handle attachment points.
At each marked point, pierce a small hole through the crochet fabric (or use an existing ch-1 space). Insert a rivet or Chicago screw through the crochet layer, thread the D-ring onto the rivet bracket, then close the rivet from inside.
Thread handle tabs through the D-rings before closing rivets, or use lobster clasps for removable handles.
Checkpoint: Tug each handle firmly — the rivets should not pull through. Reinforce with faux leather squares if needed.
Section 6: Optional Lining
Cut one rectangle of coordinating fabric: 13 inches wide by 16.5 inches long. Sew the short ends together to form a tube. Cut two circles 5.5 inches in diameter and sew them to each open end, right sides together, leaving a 2-inch gap for turning. Turn right side out and press. Slip the lining inside the crochet barrel. Hand-stitch the gap closed and whipstitch the lining to the bag along the zipper tape.
Size Customization Tips
To make longer: Add stitches to the foundation chain in multiples of 2 — each additional 2 stitches adds approximately 0.44 inch. Use a longer zipper.
To make wider: Add more rounds to the end caps and increase the tube circumference proportionally — for each additional 1 inch of diameter, add approximately 4.5 stitches to the tube circumference.
To make smaller (clutch size): Reduce the foundation chain to 42 stitches, adjust the end caps to finish at 48 sc, and use a 7-inch zipper.
Finishing and Blocking
Wet block the crochet body before assembling: submerge in cool water, gently squeeze out excess, roll in a towel, then reshape to measurements. Allow to dry completely flat.
For end cap embellishment with fabric, press fabric with iron, back with fusible interfacing, and cut to 4.75 inches diameter. Center on cap and whipstitch around perimeter.
For embroidered end caps, use satin stitch for petals and leaves, lazy daisy stitch for small flowers, stem stitch for stems, and French knots for flower centers.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Press out excess water without wringing. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Do not machine wash or tumble dry, and store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain the barrel shape.
Final Thoughts on This Barrel Purse Crochet Tutorial
This lavender wildflower barrel purse is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but honestly just takes patience and rhythm. After a few rounds the linen stitch turns almost meditative, and watching that textured fabric grow is pure satisfaction.
The finishing details really make this bag special — those floral handles, the butterfly charm, the embroidered end caps. Together, every element creates something that feels custom and high-end.
For yourself or as a gift for someone who loves handmade beauty — either way, I think you will be proud of this one. Take your time with the hardware and zipper installation — those finishing touches are what elevate this from “nice bag” to “where did you get that?!”
I am so glad you are here — happy stitching!
