Introduction
Some projects look like a million stitches of effort yet come together in the most satisfying, logical steps — this minty bear-hoodie cardigan is one of them. It’s worked from the top down with raglan shaping, so there’s hardly any seaming, and those little round ears on the hood turn a sweet cardigan into a true keepsake. An experienced intermediate crocheter can finish in about 12 to 18 hours, ending up with a gift no store-bought sweater could ever match.
I can’t think of a sweeter baby gift — for a shower, a grandbaby, or your own new arrival. Nothing off a store shelf carries this much love. And that cream-lined hood? It frames baby’s face with the prettiest contrast when it falls open. Let’s get started!
Why This Baby Cardigan Pattern Works So Well
What lifts this cardigan above basic baby sweater patterns is its clever construction. Everything starts at the neckline and grows downward, with raglan increases shaping the yoke — those pretty diagonal seam lines running from neck to underarm are the signature.
Because it’s worked top-down, you can check the fit as you go (a doll or stuffed animal of similar size makes a fine stand-in!). Any fit hiccups get caught early — long before the body and sleeves have eaten up your hours.
Half double crochet (hdc) builds the dense, even fabric of the body: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops — that’s all there is to it. It’s taller than a single crochet but shorter than a double, so it moves along faster than singles while giving a warmer, sturdier fabric.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 6 to 12 months.
Finished chest circumference (buttoned): approximately 20 inches / 51 cm
Finished length (back neck to hem): approximately 11 inches / 28 cm
Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): approximately 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm
Hood height (from neckline pickup to top of hood): approximately 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm
Materials Needed for This Crochet Baby Cardigan
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (weight category 4), approximately 300 to 350 yards / 275 to 320 meters in Mint Green (Color A), and approximately 40 yards / 37 meters in Cream (Color B) for the hood lining.
Hook: US size H-8 / 5.0 mm crochet hook
Notions:
– Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
– 5 daisy-shaped buttons, approximately 18 mm diameter, in yellow
– 1 small bumblebee applique or embroidered bee accent
– Stitch markers (at least 6)
– Scissors
– Rust-proof pins for blocking
Yarn Suggestions
For the mint and cream, Lion Brand Pound of Love in Pastel Green and Fisherman is a lovely pick. This 100 percent acrylic yarn is baby-soft, machine washable, and easy to find — and those big skeins keep baby projects budget-friendly.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, held as a light worsted, is another excellent option — the Spearmint Green and Vanilla colorways match the photos beautifully, and the smooth stitch definition shows off the texture wonderfully.
Any worsted weight yarn that meets the stated gauge can be substituted. For a baby garment, choose a machine-washable, baby-safe yarn and leave novelty or textured yarns on the shelf — this design depends on that clean stitch texture.
Gauge
16 hdc x 11 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm, worked in rows, blocked.
Friends, gauge truly matters on this garment — even small differences will change the chest and length more than you’d think. Make your swatch from the actual yarn and hook you’ll use, and wash and block it before measuring.
If your swatch is too big, go down a hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size.
Abbreviations Used
beg = beginning
BLO = back loop only
ch = chain
ch-sp = chain space
hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
hdc2tog = half double crochet two together, a decrease stitch
inc = increase (2 hdc in same stitch)
pm = place marker
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)
This is your decrease stitch. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 5 loops. One stitch decreased.
Raglan Increase Point
Work 2 hdc into the stitch immediately before the marked stitch, place or move marker into next stitch (the raglan seam stitch), work 2 hdc into the stitch immediately after the marked stitch. This places 2 increases on either side of each raglan seam stitch, adding 8 total stitches per increase row across 4 raglan points.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
The turning chain (ch 1, turn) begins each row throughout this pattern. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
The right side is the outside of the garment facing out when worn.
Four raglan seam stitches are marked and maintained throughout the yoke. These 4 stitches are not increased into. The increases happen on either side of them.
After the yoke, sleeves are separated onto holders and the body is worked in one piece back and forth down to the hem.
Step-by-Step Instructions for the Crochet Cardigan
Yoke
The yoke is worked flat, back and forth in rows, beginning at the back neck edge and working downward.
Foundation Chain: Ch 39.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (38 hdc)
Raglan Setup: Mark stitches 5, 14, 25, and 34 as raglan seam stitches.
Your sections are now: Right Front = sts 1-4 (4 sts), Seam = st 5 (1 st), Right Sleeve = sts 6-13 (8 sts), Seam = st 14 (1 st), Back = sts 15-24 (10 sts), Seam = st 25 (1 st), Left Sleeve = sts 26-33 (8 sts), Seam = st 34 (1 st), Left Front = sts 35-38 (4 sts). Total = 4+1+8+1+10+1+8+1+4 = 38. Confirmed.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Work across to 1 st before first seam st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in seam st (move marker up), 2 hdc in next st, work to 1 st before second seam st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in seam st (move marker up), 2 hdc in next st, work to 1 st before third seam st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in seam st (move marker up), 2 hdc in next st, work to 1 st before fourth seam st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in seam st (move marker up), 2 hdc in next st, hdc to end. (46 hdc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across, placing 2 hdc in the st immediately before each seam st and 2 hdc in the st immediately after each seam st, hdc in each seam st. (54 hdc)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (62 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (70 hdc)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (78 hdc)
Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (86 hdc)
Row 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (94 hdc)
Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (102 hdc)
Row 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (110 hdc)
Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Work increase row as established. (118 hdc)
Checkpoint: After Row 11, your piece should measure approximately 4 inches / 10 cm from the top neck edge to the bottom of the yoke row. Each front panel is 14 stitches wide, the back is 30 stitches wide, and each sleeve section is 28 stitches wide (not counting seam stitches).
Divide for Body and Sleeves
Row 12 (WS): Work hdc across first 14 Right Front sts. Skip the next seam st. Place 28 Right Sleeve sts plus the two flanking seam sts on a holder or length of scrap yarn (30 sts total held). Ch 2 to bridge the underarm. Work hdc across 30 Back sts. Skip the next seam st. Place 28 Left Sleeve sts plus the two flanking seam sts on a holder (30 sts total held). Ch 2 to bridge the underarm. Work hdc across 14 Left Front sts. (62 sts)
Body
Rows 13 through 30: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. (62 hdc each row)
Continue working even rows of hdc until body measures approximately 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm from the underarm row.
Checkpoint: After completing the body rows, your piece should measure approximately 11 inches / 28 cm from the back neck chain to the bottom hem edge.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Transfer held sleeve stitches to hook. You have 30 sts on the holder plus you will pick up 2 sts across the underarm bridge chains for a total of 32 sts.
Setup Round: Join Color A with sl st at the center of the underarm bridge. Working in the round, work 1 hdc in each of the 2 underarm chain sts, then hdc in each of the 30 held sleeve sts. Join with sl st to first hdc. (32 hdc)
Rnds 2 through 10: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. (32 hdc each round)
Sleeve Decrease Rnd 11: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, join with sl st. (30 hdc)
Rnds 12 through 14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. (30 hdc each round)
Sleeve Decrease Rnd 15: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, join with sl st. (28 hdc)
Rnds 16 through 18: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. (28 hdc each round)
Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in.
Cuff Ribbing
Short rows, worked sideways and joined into the cuff edge, are what create those pretty vertical ribs.
With Color A and RS facing, attach yarn to any stitch at the cuff edge.
Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc BLO in each sc across. (5 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc BLO in each sc across. Sl st into next 2 sts of sleeve cuff edge to anchor.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 until all sleeve edge stitches have been joined (approximately 14 ribbing segments for 28 sts).
Seam the ribbing short edges together to close the cuff.
Hood
The hood is worked flat in turned rows and seamed along the top.
With Color A, ch 57.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (56 hdc)
Rows 2 through 26: Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. (56 hdc each row)
Fold the hood panel in half with right sides together. Seam the top edge using a sl st seam or mattress stitch through both layers across all 56 sts to close the top of the hood.
Turn hood right side out.
Hood Lining
With Color B (cream), ch 57.
Rows 1 through 26: Work identically to the hood outer shell. (56 hdc, 26 rows)
Fold and seam the top edge in the same manner as the outer hood.
Place the lining inside the hood with wrong sides together. The cream lining will be visible when the hood falls open at the face. Using Color B, slip stitch the lining to the hood along the front face-opening edge, going through both layers.
Bear Ears (Make 2)
With Color A, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times, join with sl st. (18 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Fold each ear slightly to create a cupped shape. Position each ear on top of the hood, approximately 1.5 inches / 4 cm from the center seam. Using the yarn tail, sew each ear securely to the hood.
Attaching Hood to Cardigan
Pin the bottom edge of the hood around the neckline of the cardigan, matching center back of the hood to center back of the neckline. Distribute the 56 hood stitches evenly across the neckline.
Using Color A, seam the hood to the neckline using a whipstitch or sl st seam on the WS.
Button Bands
Left Front Button Band (no buttonholes):
With RS facing, attach Color A at the bottom left hem edge. Working upward along the left front opening edge, sc evenly along the edge, approximately 52 sc up the front edge.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. (52 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. (52 sc)
Row 3: Sl st across to secure. Fasten off.
Right Front Buttonhole Band:
With RS facing, attach Color A at the top right neck edge. Working downward, sc evenly (approximately 52 sc total).
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. (52 sc)
Row 2 (Buttonhole Row): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 3 sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc) 4 times, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in last 4 sc. (5 buttonholes placed evenly)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp across. (52 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Finishing Your Bear Hoodie Baby Cardigan
Weave in all remaining ends from yoke, body, sleeves, and hood sections.
Block the entire garment by wet-blocking or steam-blocking according to yarn fiber content. Lay flat and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely.
Sew 5 daisy-shaped buttons to the left front button band, aligning each button with a buttonhole.
Sew or embroider one bumblebee applique to the upper left chest panel, approximately 2 inches below the neckline and 2 inches from the center front opening edge.
Optional Mini Bee Applique
With black yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into ring, join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
Switch to yellow.
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around. (9 sc)
Switch to black.
Rnd 4: Sc in each sc around. (9 sc)
Fasten off, stuff lightly, close opening. Cut two small white teardrop shapes from felt for wings and sew to the body. Sew bee to garment.
Care Instructions
For acrylic yarns, machine wash cold on gentle cycle and lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry if the yarn label advises against it. Remove and reattach buttons before washing if they are not heat or water safe.
Isn’t this the sweetest little thing? Mint green and cream were made for each other, and those perky bear ears make the whole cardigan feel like a hug. I hope you enjoy every stitch of this one, and that the little one who wears it feels how much love went into it.
