Okay, I am obsessed with this bag. Like, cannot-stop-staring obsessed. The second that last end was woven in, I knew the crescent moon silhouette was going straight into my forever-favorites. If you have been hunting for a crochet bag pattern that looks wildly complicated but isn’t — you just found the one.
This Terracotta Sunset Moon Bag pairs squishy bobble stitches with sleek ribbed panels, all shaped into the dreamiest half-moon. Add a bronze ring handle and a chain strap, and suddenly it looks straight out of a boutique window. Best part? If you can work basic stitches in the round, you can absolutely make this. I am with you for every single step.
Let me show you how to crochet this total statement piece, start to finish.
Why This Moon Bag Crochet Pattern Stands Out
Forget the average market tote — this crescent shape turns heads instantly. The bobble rows are pure texture you just want to touch, and those pointed side extensions give it an almost celestial, horned look that makes the whole design feel intentional and artful.
What I love most is how it comes together: two shaped panels, joined up, then a top band and hardware. No wild shaping. No confusing assembly. Just satisfying rows that build into something extraordinary.
And that tassel with the bronze sun charm? The perfect boho finishing touch. Style it with a linen dress in summer or your favorite chunky sweater in fall — this bag works all year.
Skill Level
Confident Beginner to Intermediate
You should feel comfortable with:
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Working in rows
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Increasing and decreasing
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Creating bobble stitches
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Basic seaming
New to bobbles? Don’t sweat it — they’re broken down fully below, and honestly they’re so fun once you find your rhythm.
Finished Dimensions
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Width at widest point: Approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm)
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Height from bottom curve to top edge: Approximately 9 inches (23 cm)
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Height including ring handle: Approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm)
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Depth: Approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
Materials Needed
Yarn
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Weight: DK weight (category 3) or light worsted weight cotton or cotton blend
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Yardage: Approximately 350 to 400 yards (320 to 365 meters) in terracotta, burnt orange, or rust
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Fiber recommendation: 100% cotton or cotton acrylic blend for structure and stitch definition
The yarn in the photos has this gorgeous matte finish and a tight twist, which is exactly what gives the bobbles their crisp definition. Skip anything soft or fuzzy here — you want that clean, textured stitch look.
Suggested yarns: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, Drops Safran, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
Hook
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Size: 4.0 mm (US G/6)
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Adjust as needed to achieve gauge
Hardware
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1 metal ring handle, approximately 5 inches (12.5 cm) diameter, bronze or antique gold finish
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2 lobster claw clasps, bronze finish
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2 D-rings or jump rings, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm)
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1 detachable chain strap, approximately 45 to 50 inches (114 to 127 cm), bronze finish
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1 decorative charm for tassel (optional)
Notions
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Tapestry needle
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Stitch markers
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Scissors
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Fabric for lining (optional but recommended)
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Magnetic snap closure (optional)
Gauge
18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet with 4.0 mm hook
Gauge counts for this one since it sets the finished size. Swatch first: too small, go up a hook size; too large, go down.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Quick stitch glossary before we dive in — bookmark it and come back anytime.
Ch = Chain: Yarn over, pull through loop on hook. Creates foundation or adds height.
Sl st = Slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion. Used for joining or invisible movement.
Sc = Single crochet: Insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. The most basic stitch.
Hdc = Half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Slightly taller than sc.
Dc = Double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. Creates taller fabric.
Bobble (bob) = Bobble stitch: Work 5 dc in the same stitch but do not complete them. For each dc, stop when 2 loops remain on hook. After all 5 partial dc, you will have 6 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through all 6 loops at once. This pushes the bobble to the front (right side) of your work.
Inc = Increase: Work 2 stitches in the same stitch.
Dec = Decrease: Work 2 stitches together as one. For sc dec, insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3.
FLO = Front loop only: Insert hook under just the front loop of the stitch below.
BLO = Back loop only: Insert hook under just the back loop of the stitch below. This creates the ribbed texture you see on this bag.
RS = Right side (the front, public side)
WS = Wrong side (the back, hidden side)
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
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The bag is made in several parts: two body panels, one top band, handle wrapping, and tassel.
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Each body panel is worked flat in rows, then they are seamed together.
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The ribbed vertical lines come from working in BLO. This is what creates those beautiful raised ridges.
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Bobbles are always worked on RS rows. They naturally pop forward.
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The top band is worked separately and sewn on, then the ring handle is attached.
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Read the whole pattern through first. I know, diving in is tempting — but a quick read-through now saves so much confusion later.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern for the Moon Bag
Panel Body (Make 2)
Here is the game plan: we shape the crescent by increasing at the center and working straight along the sides, then decrease to curve into that moon shape. Bobbles land every few rows in alternating columns.
Foundation Row: Ch 51.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of first 4 sts, bob in next st, sc in BLO of next 4 sts. Repeat from * to * across. Turn. (50 sts, 10 bobbles)
The bobbles pop to the right side all on their own. If the wrong side looks a little wild, don’t worry — nobody sees it.
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across, working into the top of each bobble as a regular stitch. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of first 2 sts, bob in next st, sc in BLO of next 4 sts. Repeat from * to * to last 3 sts, bob in next st, sc in BLO of last 2 sts. Turn. (50 sts, 10 bobbles)
That offset is what builds the staggered grid you see in the photos.
Rows 8 through 10: Repeat Rows 4 through 6. (50 sts each row)
Continue alternating the bobble placement every 4 rows (bobbles on Rows 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, etc.) while maintaining the BLO ribbing on all other rows.
Shaping the Crescent Curve
After approximately 20 rows of straight work, begin decreasing on both ends to create the curved bottom edge.
Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, sc dec. Turn. (48 sts)
Row 22 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BLO across. Turn. (48 sts)
Continue decreasing 1 stitch on each end every RS row until you have approximately 30 sts remaining. This takes roughly 10 more rows.
Final rows: Work 2 to 3 rows even (no decreases) to finish the bottom curve smoothly.
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for seaming.
Repeat entire Panel Body instructions for the second panel.
Pointed Side Extensions (Make 2 per Panel, 4 Total)
Next up: those horn-like points on either side. They are worked right onto the top corners of each panel.
With RS facing, join yarn at the top corner of one panel.
Row 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc evenly along the corner edge. Turn. (8 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (8 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in BLO to last 2 sts, sc dec. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in BLO across. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in BLO of next 2 sts, sc dec. Turn. (4 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in BLO across. Turn. (4 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc dec twice. Turn. (2 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc dec. (1 st)
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Repeat for all four corners (two on each panel).
Joining the Panels
Place both panels with WS together. The bobbles and ribbing should face outward on both sides.
Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, whip stitch or mattress stitch around the curved bottom edge, leaving the top open for the bag opening.
Take your time with this seam — neat, even stitches are what make it look polished and nearly invisible from the outside.
Top Band
The top band is its own little piece, attached after. It is the smooth ribbed section sitting just below the handle.
Foundation: Ch 101.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (100 sts)
Rows 2 through 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO across. Turn. (100 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Fold the band in half widthwise to find center. Mark the center point. This will align with the center of your bag opening.
Pin the band around the top opening of the joined bag body, easing it to fit. The pointed extensions should remain free above the band.
Whip stitch the band in place along both the inner and outer edges for security.
Attaching the Ring Handle
Position the metal ring handle at the center top of the bag, resting against the inside of the top band.
Using matching yarn, work slip stitches through the band fabric and around the ring to secure it in place. Work approximately 15 to 20 sl sts along the portion of the ring that will be covered.
Handle Wrap
To cover the top portion of the ring (where your hand grips), you will crochet directly around it.
Attach yarn to the ring with a slip knot.
Work sc stitches around the ring, inserting your hook under the metal and pulling yarn through, then completing the sc as normal. Continue until you have covered approximately one quarter of the ring circumference (the top portion).
Fasten off and weave in ends neatly.
D-Ring Tabs for Chain Strap (Make 2)
These small tabs hold the D-rings that connect to your chain strap.
Ch 8. Sl st to first ch to form a loop, ensuring the D-ring is inside the loop.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 12 sc around the chain loop, encasing the D-ring. Sl st to first sc to join.
Fasten off, leaving a tail.
Sew one tab to each pointed side extension, positioning them near the base of the points where they meet the top band. The lobster clasps on your chain will clip into these D-rings.
Tassel
Cut approximately 40 strands of yarn, each 12 inches (30.5 cm) long.
Gather all strands and fold in half.
Using a separate 12-inch piece of yarn, tie tightly around the folded loop, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the fold. This creates the tassel head.
Wrap another strand several times around the tassel about half an inch below the tie to form the neck. Secure with a knot and tuck ends inside.
Trim the tassel ends evenly.
Attach your decorative charm (the sun charm in the image adds such a gorgeous detail) to the tassel loop before attaching to the bag.
Use a jump ring or yarn loop to attach the finished tassel to one of the D-ring tabs or directly to the handle.
Optional Lining
For a truly professional finish, line your bag with cotton fabric. Cut two pieces matching your panel shape plus seam allowance. Sew them together, insert into the bag with WS facing out, and hand stitch to the inside of the top band.
If you want closure, install a magnetic snap on the lining before sewing it in place.
Helpful Tips for Success
Bobble tension: keep every bobble worked the same way — consistent wraps mean consistent pop. Loose bobbles look deflated; snug ones pop beautifully.
Blocking: give your finished panels a light steam block before seaming. It evens everything out and makes assembly so much easier.
Hardware shopping: search for purse ring handles, chain straps, and D-ring findings in a bronze or antique gold finish.
Yarn substitution: no DK cotton on hand? Light worsted works too — just match your hook to gauge. The bag might come out a touch larger, which is honestly fine.
You Did It
If you made it this far, you are holding (or about to hold) the most stunning handmade bag in any room you walk into. This Terracotta Sunset Moon Bag is exactly the kind of project that reminds you why you fell for crochet.
Thank you for trusting me with your time and your yarn — I genuinely appreciate you being here.
Happy hooking, friend. You’ve so got this.
