Bunny Pinafore Toddler Dress Free Crochet Pattern

If you ask me, this is the cutest toddler project to ever come off my hook — and I am so happy to share it with you today. Looking for a handmade gift that looks far trickier than it really is? This bunny pinafore dress is about to become your new favorite. Yes, it is 18 to 25 hours of stitching — and every minute shows in the finished outfit.

This pattern has everything I adore about crocheting for little ones. A lavender pinafore with a structured bodice, a flowy gathered skirt with scalloped edges, sweet patch pockets with button accents, and the most precious three-dimensional bunny face on the front. Layered over a plain white long-sleeve shirt, it is the perfect seasonal look.

Whether it is for your own little one, a baby shower, or a grandchild who deserves spoiling, this one brings serious wow factor. It is rated intermediate — you will pick up some new techniques — but nothing here is out of reach if your basic stitches are comfortable and you follow along step by step.

About This Bunny Pinafore Crochet Pattern

This tutorial walks you through a complete pinafore set in sizes 12 months through 3T. There are several pieces to make separately and then bring together: a front and back bodice panel, two shoulder straps, a gathered skirt worked in the round, two patch pockets, a stuffed amigurumi bunny head with ears, and little bow embellishments.

The order of operations is simple once you see the pieces: flat bodice panels first, seamed at the sides, then stitches picked up along the waist to work the skirt downward in joined rounds. The embellishments are made on their own and attached at the very end.

What makes this pattern special is the fabric itself. Working in the back loop only (BLO) through most of the project creates subtle horizontal ridges — a professional, structured look you just don’t get from plain single crochet.

Finished Measurements

All instructions are written for the smallest size first. Larger sizes appear in parentheses in the format: 12-18 months (2T, 3T).

Size 12 to 18 months:

• Chest: 19 inches / 48 cm

• Length from shoulder to hem: 16 inches / 41 cm

• Waist circumference (unstretched): 18 inches / 46 cm

• Skirt length from waist to hem: 9 inches / 23 cm

• Bodice height front: 7 inches / 18 cm

Size 2T:

• Chest: 20.5 inches / 52 cm

• Length from shoulder to hem: 17 inches / 43 cm

• Waist circumference (unstretched): 19.5 inches / 50 cm

• Skirt length from waist to hem: 9.5 inches / 24 cm

• Bodice height front: 7.5 inches / 19 cm

Size 3T:

• Chest: 22 inches / 56 cm

• Length from shoulder to hem: 18 inches / 46 cm

• Waist circumference (unstretched): 21 inches / 53 cm

• Skirt length from waist to hem: 10 inches / 25 cm

• Bodice height front: 8 inches / 20 cm

Materials Needed

Yarn

Color A (Lavender): Worsted weight yarn, approximately 400 (440, 480) yards / 366 (402, 439) meters

Color B (Off-white or Cream): Approximately 20 yards / 18 meters for the bunny face embellishment only

Small amounts of black and pink yarn or embroidery floss for the bunny’s facial features

Recommended Yarn Brands

1. A 100 percent acrylic worsted weight yarn in lavender, which is machine washable and wonderfully soft against baby skin

2. A 100 percent acrylic DK weight yarn used at a tighter gauge on a G hook to achieve worsted density, with excellent stitch definition

3. A soft acrylic worsted weight yarn in a mauve or lilac shade, known for beautiful drape and very affordable pricing

Substitution tip: Choose any smooth worsted weight yarn that achieves gauge. Avoid heavily textured or fuzzy yarns because they will obscure the stitch definition. Cotton blends work but produce a stiffer fabric. Acrylic or acrylic-blend yarns are best for drape and washability in children’s garments.

Hooks

• US size G-6 / 4.0 mm crochet hook for the main fabric (bodice, skirt, straps, pockets)

• US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook for the bunny head and ears

Notions

• 6 to 8 stitch markers

• Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends

• 4 wooden buttons, 5/8 inch / 15 mm diameter (2 for pockets, 2 for strap closures at back)

• Small amount of polyester fiberfill stuffing for bunny head

• 2 black safety eyes, 6 mm, OR black embroidery floss for eyes

• Pink embroidery floss for bunny nose and cheeks

• Scissors

• Blocking board or towels

Gauge

With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and worsted weight yarn:

16 single crochet stitches x 18 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches / 10 cm x 10 cm in single crochet, blocked

To make a gauge swatch: Chain 20. Work single crochet in each chain across. Turn. Continue working single crochet rows until your swatch measures approximately 5 inches. Fasten off, block the swatch, then measure the center 4 inch by 4 inch area.

Fit lives and dies by gauge on garments, so adjust your hook up or down until you hit it before the dress begins.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

A quick tour of every abbreviation in this pattern. If reading patterns is still new to you, give these a once-over before the first row.

beg = beginning

BLO = back loop only (when you look at a stitch from above, you see two loops; the back loop is the one farther from you)

ch = chain (wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook)

ch-sp = chain space (the gap created by a chain in the previous row)

dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)

dec = single crochet decrease, also written as sc2tog

hdc = half double crochet

inc = single crochet increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch, which adds 1 stitch to your count)

rep = repeat

rnd = round

RS = right side (the side that faces outward when worn)

sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)

sc2tog = single crochet two together, a decrease stitch (insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop so you have 2 loops on hook, insert hook into following stitch and pull up a loop so you have 3 loops on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops; this consumes 2 stitches and produces 1 stitch)

sk = skip

sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, pull up loop and draw directly through loop on hook)

sp = space

st(s) = stitch(es)

t-ch = turning chain

WS = wrong side

yo = yarn over

Special Techniques

Magic Ring

Make a loop with your yarn, insert hook through the loop, draw up a working loop, then chain 1. This creates an adjustable ring that you can tighten closed after working the first round. It eliminates the small hole that appears when starting amigurumi with a traditional chain.

Scallop Stitch (for hem border)

Work as follows in one continuous pass: Slip stitch into first stitch, chain 1. In the next stitch work 5 double crochet. Skip 1 stitch. Slip stitch into next stitch. Repeat this sequence around. Each scallop shell consumes 3 stitches total.

Button Opening

Chain 2, skip 2 stitches. On the following row, work 2 single crochet into the chain-2 space to close the opening while leaving a buttonhole.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

1. The pinafore bodice is worked flat in two panels (front and back) and seamed at the sides. The skirt is picked up along the waist edge and worked in joined rounds downward.

2. Straps are worked separately and attached at the front of the bodice, then secured with buttons at the back.

3. All turning chains are chain 1 and do NOT count as a stitch throughout this pattern.

4. Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of every row and round.

5. Row 1 establishes the right side. After the first chain 1 and turn, you are on the wrong side for Row 2, alternating from there.

6. The bunny head is worked in continuous rounds with no joining and no turning. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.

7. When working in BLO for the bodice panels, you create a subtle horizontal ridge every right-side row. This gives the bodice its textured, structured appearance.

8. Weave in all ends before assembly.

Step by Step Instructions

Front Bodice Panel

Foundation: Chain 39 (43, 47).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Rows 4 through 20 (21, 22): Repeat Rows 2 and 3 alternately, maintaining sc in BLO throughout. Turn at end of each row. After Row 20 (21, 22), the bodice panel should measure approximately 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm (4.75 inches / 12 cm, 5 inches / 12.5 cm) from foundation chain. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Armhole Shaping

Row 21 (22, 23) (RS): Ch 1. Sl st across first 4 sts. Ch 1. Sc in BLO across until 4 sts remain. Leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn. (30, 34, 38 sc)

Row 22 (23, 24) (WS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc in BLO across until 2 sts remain. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. (28, 32, 36 sc)

Row 23 (24, 25) (RS): Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc in BLO across until 2 sts remain. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Row 24 (25, 26) (WS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Row 25 (26, 27) (RS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Rows 26 through 31 (27 through 32, 28 through 34): Repeat last 2 rows. After final row, bodice measures approximately 7 inches / 18 cm (7.5 inches / 19 cm, 8 inches / 20 cm) from foundation. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Neckline and Strap Division

Row 32 (33, 35) (RS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across first 8 (9, 10) sts. Turn. This creates the left strap base. Leave remaining sts unworked for right side and center neck.

Left Strap Base:

Row 33 (34, 36): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across 8 (9, 10) sts. Turn. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Row 34 (35, 37): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Rows 35 through 40 (36 through 41, 38 through 44): Repeat last 2 rows. Fasten off. Mark this edge with stitch marker.

Center Neck: With RS facing, skip center 10 (12, 14) sts on Row 32 (33, 35).

Right Strap Base: Join yarn in next st.

Row 33 (34, 36): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across remaining 8 (9, 10) sts. Turn. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Rows 34 through 40 (35 through 41, 37 through 44): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Fasten off.

Checkpoint: After completing the front bodice panel, the piece should measure approximately 7 inches / 18 cm tall (7.5 inches / 19 cm for 2T, 8 inches / 20 cm for 3T) and approximately 9.5 inches / 24 cm wide at the widest point. The two strap bases should each be approximately 2 inches / 5 cm wide and 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm tall above the armhole shaping.

Back Bodice Panel

Foundation: Chain 39 (43, 47).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Rows 4 through 20 (21, 22): Repeat Rows 2 and 3. (38, 42, 46 sc)

Armhole Shaping

Row 21 (22, 23): Ch 1. Sl st across first 4 sts. Ch 1. Sc in BLO across until 4 sts remain. Leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn. (30, 34, 38 sc)

Row 22 (23, 24): Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in BLO across until 2 sts remain. Sc2tog. Turn. (28, 32, 36 sc)

Row 23 (24, 25): Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in BLO across until 2 sts remain. Sc2tog. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Rows 24 through 31 (25 through 32, 26 through 34): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Row 32 (33, 35): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Row 33 (34, 36): Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Fasten off. (26, 30, 34 sc)

Note: The back panel does not have a center neckline cut-out. The full top edge becomes the back neck and strap attachment zone.

Button Placement: With RS of back panel facing, measure and mark two positions 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm from each outer edge along the top. These will be the button attachment points for the straps.

Checkpoint: Back bodice panel should match the front bodice panel in height. Width at top edge should be 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm (7.5 inches / 19 cm, 8.5 inches / 21.5 cm).

Full-Length Straps (Make 2)

Foundation: Chain 55 (59, 63).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (54, 58, 62 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (54, 58, 62 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (54, 58, 62 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across first 3 sts. Ch 2. Skip 2 sts. Sc in BLO across remaining sts. Turn. (54, 58, 62 sc total, with 2-st button opening)

Row 5: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across until ch-2 sp. Work 2 sc into ch-2 sp. Sc in BLO to end. Turn. (54, 58, 62 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. (54, 58, 62 sc)

Each strap is 6 rows tall and approximately 13.5 inches / 34 cm (14.5 inches / 37 cm, 15.5 inches / 39 cm) long.

Bow Attachment Point: On Row 2 of each strap, mark the position 1 inch / 2.5 cm from one short end (this is the front end where you will attach the bow later).

Skirt

The skirt grows downward from the waist in joined rounds. Once the bodice side seams are done, you will pick up stitches along the bottom edge of both panels combined and work toward the hem.

Important Size Adjustments for Clean Math:

To ensure the increase rounds and scallop border work out evenly, adjust your pickup counts as follows:

• 12-18M: 38 sc front plus 38 sc back = 76 sc total

• 2T: 40 sc front plus 40 sc back = 80 sc total

• 3T: 44 sc front plus 44 sc back = 88 sc total

Waist Pickup Round: With RS of joined bodice facing, join Color A at right side seam. Work sc evenly along entire bottom edge of bodice. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn. (76, 80, 88 sc)

Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (76, 80, 88 sc)

Round 2 (Increase Round): Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) around. Join. (95, 100, 110 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (95, 100, 110 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (95, 100, 110 sc)

Round 5 (Increase Round): Ch 1. (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) around. Join. (114, 120, 132 sc)

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (114, 120, 132 sc)

Round 7: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (114, 120, 132 sc)

Round 8 (Increase Round): Ch 1. (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) around. Join. (133, 140, 154 sc)

Rounds 9 through 18: Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (133, 140, 154 sc)

For 2T and 3T, add 2 and 4 additional plain rounds respectively before the hem border to achieve target skirt length.

Checkpoint: At this point the skirt circumference at the hem should be approximately 33 inches / 84 cm (35 inches / 89 cm, 38.5 inches / 98 cm).

Hem Scallop Border

The scallop stitch requires a stitch count divisible by 3. Work an adjustment round as follows:

Adjustment Round for 12-18M: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across first 65 sts, inc, sc in next 2 sts, inc, sc in BLO across remaining 66 sts. Join. (135 sc)

Adjustment Round for 2T: Ch 1. Sc in first 70 sts, inc, sc in remaining 70 sts. Join. (141 sc)

Adjustment Round for 3T: Ch 1. Sc in first 51 sts, inc, sc in next 51 sts, inc, sc in remaining 52 sts. Join. (156 sc)

Hem Scallop Border Round: Ch 1. Work as follows: (Sl st into next st, ch 1, work 5 dc into next st, skip 1 st) around. After final shell, sl st into first sl st to join. Fasten off. (45, 47, 52 scallop shells)

Patch Pockets (Make 2)

Foundation: Chain 16 (17, 18).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (15, 16, 17 sc)

Rows 2 through 11: Ch 1. Sc in BLO across. Turn. (15, 16, 17 sc)

Row 12 (all sizes): Ch 1. Sc2tog as needed to reach 15 sts total. Sc across remaining sts. Turn. (15 sc)

Pocket Top Border (Row 13): Ch 1. Work (sl st, ch 1, 5 dc into next st, skip 1 st) across. End with sl st. Fasten off. (5 scallop shells)

Pocket Button: Sew one wooden button to center of each pocket, approximately 1 row from top. The button is decorative only.

Pocket Placement: Position pockets on front skirt, centering each one on the left and right front quarter, approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm above the hem scallop. Whipstitch along the three non-scalloped sides.

Bunny Head Applique

Worked in continuous rounds with E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and Color A. Use a stitch marker to track round beginnings.

Round 1: Magic ring. Work 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) around. (18 sc)

Round 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) around. (24 sc)

Round 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) around. (30 sc)

Round 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) around. (36 sc)

Round 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) around. (42 sc)

Rounds 8 through 12: Sc in each st around. (42 sc)

Round 13: (Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) around. (36 sc)

Round 14: (Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) around. (30 sc)

Insert safety eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, spaced about 6 stitches apart. If using embroidery floss instead, wait until after stuffing to embroider the eyes.

Round 15: (Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) around. (24 sc)

Begin stuffing the bunny head firmly with fiberfill.

Round 16: (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around. (18 sc)

Round 17: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) around. (12 sc)

Add more stuffing as needed.

Round 18: Sc2tog around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end.

Use pink embroidery floss to stitch a small triangle nose and optional rosy cheeks onto the bunny face.

Bunny Ears (Make 2)

Worked in continuous rounds with E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and Color A.

Round 1: Magic ring. Work 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) around. (9 sc)

Round 3: Sc in each st around. (9 sc)

Round 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) around. (12 sc)

Rounds 5 through 10: Sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 11: (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around. (9 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching. Do not stuff the ears. Pinch the base flat and sew onto the top of the bunny head, spacing them about 1 inch apart.

Bow Embellishments (Make 2)

With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and Color A: Foundation: Chain 9.

Rows 1 through 6: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (8 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. This creates a small rectangle. Pinch the center together and wrap the tail around the middle several times to create a bow shape. Secure with a few stitches. Attach one bow to each strap at the marked position near the front.

Assembly Instructions

1. Seam bodice sides: Place front and back bodice panels with right sides together. Whipstitch or mattress stitch the side seams from the underarm down to the waist edge.

2. Attach skirt: Work the waist pickup round directly onto the bottom edge of the joined bodice as described in the Skirt section.

3. Attach straps: Sew the front end of each strap (the end without the buttonhole) to the corresponding strap base on the front bodice panel. Try the dress on the child or a similar-sized doll to determine whether straps should cross at the back or run straight. Mark button placement on the back bodice panel and sew buttons securely.

4. Attach pockets: Position and whipstitch pockets to front skirt as described.

5. Attach bunny head: Center the stuffed bunny head on the front bodice, just below the neckline. Whipstitch in place around the base, securing firmly.

6. Attach bows: Sew one bow to each strap near the front attachment point.

7. Weave in all remaining ends and block the finished dress lightly if desired.

Helpful Tips for Success

Tension matters: On a garment, steady tension is everything for fit. If your gauge drifts mid-project, the bodice and skirt can end up not quite lining up.

Try it on as you go: If you can, have the little one try the bodice after the side seams but before the skirt goes on — the perfect moment to tweak strap length and check the fit.

Safety eyes versus embroidery: For babies and toddlers who explore with their mouths, embroidered eyes are the safer pick. Safety eyes hold well when installed properly, but stitching the features removes any choking worry entirely.

Blocking: A light steam or wet block evens out the stitches and coaxes the scallop border into lying flat and pretty.

Washing: Made with the recommended acrylic, this dress goes right in the machine on gentle. Lay flat to dry so it keeps its shape.

Closing Thoughts

Thank you for choosing this bunny pinafore for your next project, friend. From the textured BLO fabric to that sweet little amigurumi bunny face, it all adds up to something truly special — and one lucky little one gets to wear it.

Happy crocheting!